An Oversized Estate Sale Floral

I have had my eye on this Claire McCardell pattern for some time.  Of course, I have so many ideas for my next project swirling around in my head and this one dropped off of my top ten to-do list.

But when Emily mentioned the pattern recently, it reminded me of the wonderful design.  Of course, I couldn't find the perfect fabric in my stash, but it was only a matter of time until something suitable showed up.  A muslin was made, cinching the deal.  It's a fabulous dress!

And then I found this oversized rose print at an estate sale and there was enough yardage for the McCardell, miracle of miracles!  It was certainly meant to be.  I suspect this is a quilting cotton from the 1980s or 1990s.  I just love the graphic print and as soon as I found it I knew that it would be just perfect for this dress design.

The bodice of this dress is cut on the bias, meaning that the opening v-neck is on the straight of grain.  McCardell genius, you might say.  I went a little overboard and decided to stabilize the opening anyway with a strip of rayon seam binding since it has become a habit.

The front facing is cut in one with the bodice, as you can see here.

And, of course, that rayon seam binding gets a lot of play in most of my projects, as it certainly did here.

One of the most frequently asked questions I receive about rayon seam binding is how it works on curved edges.  The answer is, the product is woven on the grain, but because it is very thin and narrow and irons beautifully, you can ease it around curves without too much fuss.

And here is the front bodice with the cut in one facing folded into place.  The seam binding I used to stay the neckline opening was stitched just inside the fold line, and if you look closely, you can see the white thread on the red and black portions of the fabric.

I did forget just how much extra yardage is needed with an oversized print like this.  So while I had slightly more fabric than the pattern yardage requirements stated, it was a fight to get everything cut out.   I ended up piecing the sash because I wanted print placement on the front and back bodice to look as intentional as possible.

The skirt is pretty fabulous on its own.  I may just have to make a skirt from this pattern in the future. And another potential project gets added to the very long list . . .

A regular zipper was hand stitched into the left side seam.

And I catch-stitched the hemline in place.

Because my favorite vintage style bra has very narrow set straps that like to peek out of necklines, I added lingerie guards to the shoulder seams.

It's easy to make your own with a snap and a short length of ribbon, and I think they look much nicer than the store bought options.

And that means the dress is finished, right down to the smallest detail.  This is definitely a pattern I plan to make again in the near future!

A Swinging Good Time

If it’s looking a little like Christmas in these photos, that is because I wore this outfit back in December to a Marin Symphony holiday concert.

This is my wearable muslin of the heavy wool coat I have been working on.

As I suspected, a swing coat was something I desperately needed in my closet!  And I would love to have another . . . which explains the pink version I am working on.

For this blue version's first night out, I wanted to find a dress that would be up to the challenge of showing the coat to its advantage.  What I came up with was this green dress made up way back in 2011 using a vintage reproduction pattern purchased from Eva Dress.  

I love the Vogue Couturier Design!  It doesn't get much wear, and, like so many things that I made many years ago, there are things that I would change if I were to stitch this together today.  But overall, I am very pleased with this garment.  I recall that I meant to make another more every day version by eliminating the drapes . . . yet another project that was dreamt up but never completed due to a lack of time and the distraction of other patterns and projects.

I did not find a hat in my collection that I liked with this particular ensemble, so I made a quick velvet bow out of some leftover red velvet.  

I loved wearing the outfit, and I am really glad that I finally have this coat in my closet!

Now if only I could find a gorgeous wine colored wool, because I am always wishing I had a coat in that color.  But that will have to wait for a few months since I am very excited about making some Sping and Summer appropriate frocks.

For now, I am really pleased with how good I am being about sewing with stashed fabrics (including this navy blue mystery blend)!

Dress:  Made by me, Vogue 883 (Eva Dress E50-883)

Coat:  Made by me, Simplicity 8509

Shoes:  Kristin Cavallari “Copertina”

Necklace:  Banana Republic

Ring:  Mom’s high school ring

Velvet Hair Bow:  Made by me

Gemstones and Jewels

So I have finally managed to cull through the photos from my most recent trip to the De Young Museum with Mom.

This time around it was all about The Art of Bulgari: La Dolce Vita & Beyond, 1950–1990.  The exhibition should really be labeled “conspicuous consumption.” It is mind boggling to imagine anyone really owning one of these incredible pieces.  These jewels may escape the confines of their velvet prisons for a day or two on the neck of some Hollywood star, but most of their lives are probably spent inside a cold, dark vault.  Which is sad, right?  

I have the same problem with incredible vintage fashion.  It is meant to be worn, but its life will be shortened by daily wear and tear.  So it is better to preserve it in the pristine setting of a museum or vault, or should it be out in the world?  I am not sure which answer makes me more comfortable.  What I do know is  . . . I have never seen such gorgeous emeralds in person, and probably never will ever again!  Photos really cannot do justice to these pieces, and I am so pleased that I had a chance to see them with my own eyes.

A trip to the museum always gets me into a heated discussion with my boss about what deserves the title of “art” and what truly belongs in a museum.  He would never be caught dead in the Bvlgari exhibit (even though he visits this museum frequently).  He insists that these things are a sell out and that fashion exhibitions and the like do not belong in an art museum.

I did manage to get him into the Gaultier exhibit last year (but that probably had more to do with the fact that I happened to mention there were quite a few photos of attractive young models showing quite a bit of flesh).

How can something (even if it is made of fabric or mineral) with exquisite attention to composition, color, form, line, etc., not be considered art?  And is the creator of these "fashion" pieces not considered an artist?

I do not always want to see the suffering of the world on display – sometimes escapism is needed, even on the walls of a museum.  Can’t something be just about beauty for beauty’s sake?  Does it have to make some political impact to be important?

In my world, it certainly does not.  That may be naive, but it is how I get through the day.

Dress:  Made by me, Vogue 883

Bolero:  Made by me, Butterick 4927

Hat:  Vintage

Shoes:  Colin Stuart

Necklace:  Banana Republic

Earrings:  Shadows

Eva Dress Pattern Contest Open for Voting!

Hello everyone!  It is time to vote for the 2013 Eva Dress Pattern Contest.

My entry may be found here - to vote, scroll down to the stars and click.  The contest is open for 24 hours only, and voting ends Sunday evening at 11:59 p.m. EST.

I would really appreciate your vote!

Tea Roses

My new tea dress is complete!  The pattern was fantastic to work with - I love simply everything about this design.

I am becoming obsessed with drapey sleeves, evidence of which may be seen here, here, and here.  And I am afraid this is not the last you will see of the design feature on this blog!  

But this dress does not set the sleeves in a simple armscye.   The yoke pieces extend over the shoulder, which is fabulous!

Oh, and I forgot to mention in my previous post . . . this is the first pattern I have ever constructed with 3/8” seams.  I am not sure how I managed to go this long with all of the vintage patterns I use, but before this, 1/2" is the smallest seam allowance I have ever come across.  To be honest, I was a bit concerned with this pattern feature, but my rayon responded favorably, so all is well.  If I ever make this dress up again in a fabric that is fray-happy, I will have to reevaluate how I feel about narrow seams!

The linked button closure was also a first for me, and I am sure the technique will come in handy.  Just look how perfectly it works on a jacket!

This dress is definitely not for a beginner, but that is why I love it.  Any project that challenges me, or teaches me something new is always appreciated.

And this dress is so comfortable!  I think it will get quite a bit of wear.  Although, the color says late Summer/early Fall to me, so it may live in the closet for a few months . . .

Dress:  Made by me, McCall 8997

Shoes:  Colin Stuart for Victoria’s Secret

Earrings:  Gift

Hair Flower:  Made by me

Last Minute Sewing

This year’s Eva Dress Pattern Contest ends this week, and, per usual, I have waited to the last minute to complete my submission.

I had a different pattern in mind for my rayon jacquard, but once I had this pattern in hand, I decided it would be a wonderful pairing.

One of the reasons for my decision was a buckle that has been burning a hole in my stash for quite a few years.  My original pattern choice did not have a waist seam.  But I really like the look of the buckle paired back with the deep green fabric, so the change was absolutely necessary!

And as fate would have it, JoAnn Fabrics actually had some buttons in stock that work with my buckle.

I have been working away on cuffs . . .

and lapped seams . . .

and playing with seam binding and silk organza.

And I am almost finished!