Voting for the Threads Ultimate Sewing Challenge Ends Tomorrow!

This will be the last time I pester everyone about this contest – I promise!  After all, voting ends tomorrow, November 30th at 11:59 p.m. EST.  The last time I checked I was in first place, so thank you to everyone for voting, because it is working!!!  But I could still use all the votes I can get . . .

Thanks again for all of your support!

Printed Silk Twill

Does this fabric remind anyone else of a man’s necktie?  The silk twill was one of those cuts from Fashion Fabrics Club that was nothing like what I expected.  But the price was incredibly good, and so I tucked it away.  

Butterick 5707, Retro 1958

And when I saw this pattern in the new Butterick catalogue, I immediately thought of the yardage – that must mean something, right?

So here is yet another vintage reproduction from Butterick. 

And if I was not obsessed with finishing off every seam with my Hug Snug rayon seam binding, this dress would have been a super quick and easy project.  I am especially proud of matching the pattern on the center back seam.   In fact, figuring out how to cut a diagonal print for a pattern that says it is "unsuitable for obvious diagonals" is what took the most time!

I like to bind my raw edges after I have sewn the seam so that if the edge stretches it is after that part of the garment has been assembled.  And I have always struggled with the zipper seam because it never crossed my mind to encase the zipper tape itself along with the fabric seam allowance.  This requires the use of a zipper foot, and some care that the dress itself does not get trapped under the needle, but it really works like a charm.

The cutout is not exactly what I expected (for some reason I imagined that the tie must be an extension of the yoke) and the upper bodice edge is not as low as the fashion illustration would suggest, but I love how it turned out, even if I do look like a oversized necktie.

And for a little less than $20 I have a brand new silk dress!

Dress: Made by me, Butterick 5707

Shoes:  Nine West “Zann” in Pewter from 6pm.com

Tights:  Kohls

Pearl Studs:  Kohls

Bracelet:  Meier & Frank

Hair Ornament:  Made by me

P.S.  Voting in the Threads Ultimate Sewing Challenge ends on Wednesday at 11:59 p.m. EST!  And remember, every time you vote you are entered to win a Threads prize package!  Thank you to everyone who is voting for my Emerald Green Gown!

My very first blog award!

I was thrilled to find out that Nabby of This Old Life has bestowed a Duchie Award upon my little blog.  If you are not familiar with Nabby and her fantastic 1930s style wardrobe, you must take a peek – I promise it will make you wish you were living inside a Thin Man movie (if only for the fabulous fashion). 

So here are the rules:

“When you receive a Duchie Award, post on your blog (in any order):

* Five things you love about historical costuming/wearing vintage clothing

* Three (or more) blogs to pass the Duchie Award onto

* A link back to the blog who awarded you the Duchie”

And here are five things I love about wearing vintage (or vintage styled clothing!):

* There is no need to worry about being “in style” or on trend – vintage is so old it is new again.  And even if it is considered passe, I just don't care!

* You will never show up to an event wearing the same outfit as someone else.  I think I am rebelling against the many, many years I spent in a school uniform.  Now that I can make my own clothing decisions, there is no way I am going to choose to dress like everyone else!

* There are so many extra special details found in vintage clothing and vintage patterns.

* Unless you are willing/able to spend $300 or more for a blouse, the quality of ready to wear clothing is seriously lacking these days, in my opinion.  Everything is made to be disposed of in a couple of seasons.  It amazes me that a cotton day dress from 1950 with pinked seams that obviously got quite a bit a wear is still around.  I highly doubt that many of the cotton dresses made today will last 50 or 60 years and still be in wearable condition.  Which begs the question – will vintage clothing even exist in 100 years?

* Color!  One of the reasons I love sewing is that I can choose my own fabrics and color palettes (although finding something that I have pictured in my mind is not always possible and sometimes frustrating).  These days we are at the whim of a few people at the top of the fashion ladder that decide on a palette of two or three colors for a season, and should you wish to purchase a new sweater in any other color, well, good luck with that!  I love discovering old catalogue images from the 1940s and 1950s of fabric swatches in a rainbow of colors, not to mention those beautiful prints and plaids.

I would like to pass this award on to the following blogs:

The Call of the Jitterbug Doll

Amanda Lee is a picture perfect pin-up.  And if you enjoy film noir, you must watch “The Naughty Lady” short with her starring as a Gilda-inspired character.  Love it!

Pretty Little Pictures

Jen always looks absolutely adorable in her 1950s full skirted frocks and cardis.

Molly-Made, Chronicles of a Vintage Sewist

Molly sews her own wonderful vintage style dresses and takes incredibly cute photos.

If you are curious about where this award originated, check out American Duchess.

And a great big thank you to Nabby!  My first blog award – this is so very exciting!  I feel absolutely honored.

Colourmart Cashmere

I blame the weather on my recent obsession with knitting.  And it may also have something to do with my impatience to receive A Stitch in Time, Volume 2 in the mail (darn holiday delivery schedule!).  This may be a good thing, because I have finished a couple of projects.

  

But I felt the need to start something new, so here is my progress on a sweater generously posted by Liz of zilredloh.com from a vintage Stitchcraft magazine.

I have been avoiding the Colourmart yarns I have tucked away because the coned cashmere requires a bit of work to be needle ready.  Using their yarn tends to slow my process down, because I cannot jump right in with my knitting needles.

I know that there are conflicting ideas about how to knit with coned fibers.  Because I am hand-knitting with them, I prefer to have washed, non-oiled, fluffy yarn to work with.  As much as anything, this is to avoid having to make multiple swatches to figure how much shrinkage is going to occur in the finished garment.

Because I do not have a fancy swift, I have figured out a cheap and quick substitute.  I use a binder to wrap my yarn off the cone lengthwise at the ringed end.  Once I have sufficient yardage wrapped, I secure the hank with a few lengths of cotton crochet thread (you could easily use the yarn itself, but I sometimes have a hard time finding the ends once the yarn has fluffed up) and pull the yarn off the binder.  Then it gets a hot bath in some soapy water, rinse and repeat.  I squeeze the excess water out in a towel and then throw wet skeins in the dryer.

It really is amazing how much the yarn blooms.  What starts out as a thin and rough strand becomes a lovely soft bit of cashmere.

And now I must get back to my cup of tea and knitting needles.

P.S.  I could still use everyone’s votes in the Threads Ultimate Sewing Challenge!  And remember, every time you vote you are entered to win a Threads prize package!

Coffee Bean Day Dress

These pictures were taken a couple of weeks ago, before the weather got really cold (well, cold for Marin County!).

Vintage Vogue 2876

This is one of those patterns that I initially had some misgivings about.  I had it in my stash for years before finding a suitable fabric, and while constructing the garment, decided that I was not happy with my choice and perhaps the pattern itself.  But I went ahead and finished it anyway. 

Silly me - this dress probably gets the most wear of all of my self-made garments.  It is incredibly comfortable and easy to wear.  Proof positive that first impressions are not always correct!

Dress:  Made by me, Vogue 2876

Shoes:  Nine West “Jacamou”

Earrings: Kate Spade

P.S.  I am sure everyone is sick of hearing about this from me, but I could still use votes in the Threads Ultimate Sewing Challenge (voting ends November 30th)!  And remember, every time you vote you are entered to win a Threads prize package!

Pink Martini

I finally finished this ensemble!  And guess what – it is another Vintage Vogue – I know, you are super surprised, right? 

Vogue 1136

I purchased the pattern and the fabric years ago – I just never got around to the sewing.  I meant to finish it for the Mahler symphony concert, but decided I did not want to rush my bound buttonholes and all those tucks, so I put it away.  

And instead of working on it over the weekend, I waited until Tuesday and Wednesday evening to finish it just in time for the Pink Martini concert I attended last Thursday. 

The fabric was a lucky find from Fashion Fabrics Club.  For me, the company is hit and miss.  I have found some fantastic yardage, but the colors posted online are often nothing like what shows up at my doorstep – I do not believe it is my monitor because I never have the issue with other online retailers.  They do have some fantastic deals, though, so the less than ideal stuff gets used for wearable muslins or patterns that I am not quite sure about.

This fabric was billed as faille, which it is not!  However, I love the diamond texture created with the net background.  Because I was worried that the net might be a bit itchy, and I knew it would stick to hosiery, I underlined the entire dress by hand with silk thread. 

If you look close, you can see that some of my basting stitches are still visible from the wrong side of the garment – I finished the outfit, but did not have a chance to pull out all of those extra stitches!

And by the way, this group is absolutely fantastic.  I was not familiar with their music, but it is truly phenomenal - if you ever get the opportunity, do yourself a favor and see one of their concerts!  

Dress & Jacket:  Made by me, Vogue 1136

Coat:  Made by me, Simplicity 4403, a review of the pattern may be found on Pattern Review

Slip:  Made by me, Vintage Pattern Lending Library T1136

Shoes:  Metro 7 “Justin”

Earrings:  Marcasite from Macys

Necklace:  Judith Jack

Fishnets:  Hue

Clutch:  Banana Republic

P.S.  Voting for the Threads Ultimate Sewing Challenge is still open!  I am currently in second place, so thank you for all of your votes – please keep it up!

“Ombra mai fu . . .”

I thought this dress (originally made for the 2009 Marin Symphony Gala) deserved another night out on the town, and the perfect opportunity presented itself this past Wednesday, when I attended San Francisco Opera’s production of Xerxes.  

I am embarrassed to admit that I am not very familiar with this Handel opera.  Although, lovers of the BBC's “Pride and Prejudice,” me included, will recognize the first aria as Mary’s clumsy attempt to gain recognition for her musical “talent.”  It drives me crazy when I cannot place a musical reference from a film, but this one only took me a few moments.  It is by far, the most recognizable aria of the entire opera.  Who knew a king singing about a tree could become so popular?!

The opera was quite good.  It was extremely campy and over the top, but it worked.  It has been quite a while since I saw a full length opera, and I forgot how melodramatic it can get.  Sing a few bars, head upstage to exit . . . pause, wait for a musical interlude, turn, sing, cross left, sing a bit more . . . and finally exit.  It often feels like the only motivation the characters have to stay on stage is the fact that they are not done singing.  But, of course, it is not about the acting, but the music, which was beautiful.  And the production was visually stunning – look at that set!

SF Opera's 2011 production of Xerxes

And guess what the lead soprano was wearing?  

Lisette Oropesa as Romilda in SF Opera's 2011 production of Xerxes

I promise I did not do this on purpose, but I was wearing a 1940s version of Romilda’s ensemble!  Blue, long-sleeved, full length gown with peplum – check!  I must admit I am very jealous about the yardage on those skirts and the petticoats.  How wonderful to flounce around on stage with yard upon yard of fabric.  I love when they drop to the ground and the skirt billows out around them in a picture perfect tableau.  Am I the only one who wants to work in an opera costume shop?  The wigs, the costumes, and all that beautiful fabric to play with.

My pattern was purchased from Eva Dress.  It is a reproduction of Vogue 6111, originally designed in 1947.  And look at the price - I know, I know, inflation changes things, but don't you wish you could go back in time with some of today's currency and buy up ten pairs of incredible 1940s shoes priced at 4 or 5 dollars?  And stacks and stacks of Vogue Couturier patterns, and fabric yardage . . .  

Image from Vintage Pattern Wikia

You may recognize the fabric – I had enough left over for a skirt (which gets a lot more wear then this dress!).  I absolutely love when I can squeeze two projects out of one length of fabric!  

The only thing that I was not happy with was the fabric knot that holds the neckline together.  The rayon jacquard is quite thick, and the knot looked a bit awkward.  So, I decided to do a little surgery.  Tuesday evening, I took a seam ripper to the knotted section and cut out as much excess as possible and folded the cross sections into themselves - dangerous, yes, but everything turned out for the best.  More information about the construction may be found over at Pattern Review.

Because the buttons are pronged rhinestones (from Britex), I use small squares of tissue to cover them while hanging in the closet to keep them from snagging on other garments.  And back in the closet she goes . . .

Dress:  Made by me, Eva Dress 6111

Coat: Banana Republic

Shoes:  Seychelles “Little Owl” in Navy Suede

Earrings:  Made by me (buttons from Britex with earring posts attached)

Envelope Clutch:  Made by me, Envelope Bag, free pattern from lionbrand.com

Fishnets:  Marshalls

P.S.  And I would like to remind everyone that you can vote every day until November 30th for the Threads Ultimate Sewing Challenge - my Emerald Green Gown is one of ten finalists!  If you previously voted, it will only take a few clicks of your mouse!  Thanks for voting!