Peplum Obsession

Everyone is probably sick to death of hearing me extol the virtues of the peplum, so I won’t.  Instead, I will tell you how much I adore this pattern.

Eva Dress 6111

This skirt is my third version of this 1945 pattern reproduction from Eva Dress.  There are not very many patterns that I love enough to use twice, let alone three times, so you can be sure I am a fan of this one!

The wool was leftover from this suit.  I had less than a full yard left, plus randomly shaped bits from the original suit cutting layout.  Now, a pencil skirt would be easy enough to squeeze out of the small amount of fabric, but I already have one from the first project, and the fabric weight is really not suitable for anything but a skirt or a pair of pants. 

Then I remembered that I have been meaning to make this Eva Dress pattern into a peplumed skirt for over a year.  And one of my sewing resolutions for the year is to make more separates, so it was just perfect!

It was necessary to shorten the peplum, but I may have done that anyway for a more contemporary look (and yes, I know this is not what most people would think of as a modern look!)  My original idea was to stick the zipper at the center back (instead of the original side zipper) and then brilliantly cover that seam with a second little mini peplum that would snap in place.  Well, my leftover fabric pieces were dwindling down to nothing, and the look was going to require one of those half-circle flounce pieces that always takes a great deal more fabric than I think it will.  I decided to go ahead and finish the skirt without the extra piece and see if I could live with the effect.  And I really like it!

Because of my fabric choice, a lining was necessary.  Thankfully I had some blue bemberg laying around.  I made a duplicate skirt, and dropped it inside the wool, wrong sides together.

For the waistband, I cut out a rectangle of wool, backed it with some cotton, cut another of rayon, stitched them together at the top, under-stitched the seam allowance to the lining and stitched that to the skirt.

My hem allowances may be the smallest I have ever used, but I do like the length of the skirt, so perhaps it was meant to be.

And, of course, my wool edges are finished with rayon seam binding (french-seams for the the lining).

I entered this project in the 2012 Eva Dress Pattern Contest which is currently running.  I would appreciate your votes!  And make sure to check out all of the entries – there are some fabulous finished projects in four different categories to whet the creative appetite.  I know I feel motivated to get back to my sewing machine!

Skirt:  Made by me, Eva Dress 6111

Blouse:  Marshalls

Shoes:  Miz Mooz “Lacey” in Blue

Fishnets:  Hue

Earrings: 1928

Ring:  Macys

Pretty Peplums

With all the recent talk of peplums, I was inspired to pull this dress out of the closet.

It is my wearable muslin of this formal dress.  I fell in love with the pattern on the Eva Dress website, and decided I just had to have my own. 

The original instructions were missing, so it was also an easy way to test out any construction issues that I might have.

Turns out, my "muslin" is one of my favorite dresses.

I normally wear this dress in the early Fall, and have no need of a coat.  But I love the way this coat works with the dress.  Happy coincidence!

Dress:  Made by me, Eva Dress 6111

Shoes:  Colin Stuart for Victoria’s Secret

Coat:  Banana Republic

Earrings:  Kate Spade

“Ombra mai fu . . .”

I thought this dress (originally made for the 2009 Marin Symphony Gala) deserved another night out on the town, and the perfect opportunity presented itself this past Wednesday, when I attended San Francisco Opera’s production of Xerxes.  

I am embarrassed to admit that I am not very familiar with this Handel opera.  Although, lovers of the BBC's “Pride and Prejudice,” me included, will recognize the first aria as Mary’s clumsy attempt to gain recognition for her musical “talent.”  It drives me crazy when I cannot place a musical reference from a film, but this one only took me a few moments.  It is by far, the most recognizable aria of the entire opera.  Who knew a king singing about a tree could become so popular?!

The opera was quite good.  It was extremely campy and over the top, but it worked.  It has been quite a while since I saw a full length opera, and I forgot how melodramatic it can get.  Sing a few bars, head upstage to exit . . . pause, wait for a musical interlude, turn, sing, cross left, sing a bit more . . . and finally exit.  It often feels like the only motivation the characters have to stay on stage is the fact that they are not done singing.  But, of course, it is not about the acting, but the music, which was beautiful.  And the production was visually stunning – look at that set!

SF Opera's 2011 production of Xerxes

And guess what the lead soprano was wearing?  

Lisette Oropesa as Romilda in SF Opera's 2011 production of Xerxes

I promise I did not do this on purpose, but I was wearing a 1940s version of Romilda’s ensemble!  Blue, long-sleeved, full length gown with peplum – check!  I must admit I am very jealous about the yardage on those skirts and the petticoats.  How wonderful to flounce around on stage with yard upon yard of fabric.  I love when they drop to the ground and the skirt billows out around them in a picture perfect tableau.  Am I the only one who wants to work in an opera costume shop?  The wigs, the costumes, and all that beautiful fabric to play with.

My pattern was purchased from Eva Dress.  It is a reproduction of Vogue 6111, originally designed in 1947.  And look at the price - I know, I know, inflation changes things, but don't you wish you could go back in time with some of today's currency and buy up ten pairs of incredible 1940s shoes priced at 4 or 5 dollars?  And stacks and stacks of Vogue Couturier patterns, and fabric yardage . . .  

Image from Vintage Pattern Wikia

You may recognize the fabric – I had enough left over for a skirt (which gets a lot more wear then this dress!).  I absolutely love when I can squeeze two projects out of one length of fabric!  

The only thing that I was not happy with was the fabric knot that holds the neckline together.  The rayon jacquard is quite thick, and the knot looked a bit awkward.  So, I decided to do a little surgery.  Tuesday evening, I took a seam ripper to the knotted section and cut out as much excess as possible and folded the cross sections into themselves - dangerous, yes, but everything turned out for the best.  More information about the construction may be found over at Pattern Review.

Because the buttons are pronged rhinestones (from Britex), I use small squares of tissue to cover them while hanging in the closet to keep them from snagging on other garments.  And back in the closet she goes . . .

Dress:  Made by me, Eva Dress 6111

Coat: Banana Republic

Shoes:  Seychelles “Little Owl” in Navy Suede

Earrings:  Made by me (buttons from Britex with earring posts attached)

Envelope Clutch:  Made by me, Envelope Bag, free pattern from lionbrand.com

Fishnets:  Marshalls

P.S.  And I would like to remind everyone that you can vote every day until November 30th for the Threads Ultimate Sewing Challenge - my Emerald Green Gown is one of ten finalists!  If you previously voted, it will only take a few clicks of your mouse!  Thanks for voting!