A Farewell to Summer

Autumn weather has definitely arrived in the Bay Area.  The days are still quite warm (as evidenced by the frigid temperatures in the office thanks to the ridiculous air conditioning) but the mornings and evenings are very crisp and cool.

So the last few weeks have been the last opportunity to pull out a few summer dresses that did not get any wear this season.

This is one of those dresses that I have owned since high school. 

It makes me feel a bit like Sandy in Grease.  Come to think of it, that movie is probably one of the reasons there are quite a few 1980s does 1950s “vintage” dresses out there.  And I love this particular one so very much, I just may have to make my own version one of these days!

Dress:  Vintage

Shoes:  Colin Stuart

Losing the Light

I have been working away on my latest Britex project. 

If the idea of working with this mess intimidates you, check out my latest guest post on working with vintage patterns.  My pattern choice was this New Style mail order pattern from the late 1940s.

The fabric is a wonderful light-weight navy wool tricotine.  Solid color fabrics are difficult for me, but this one has a lovely herringbone texture.  It is hard to notice unless you look very carefully, but it keeps a garment from looking flat.

I did not bother making a muslin of the entire dress for this pattern.  After measuring, it was clear that the skirt would fit. 

There was one issue, however.  The bodice back tissue was torn along the armscye.  There was a bit of guesswork to figure out what the original curve looked like with an unprinted pattern.  And I wanted to make sure that my sleeve would fit properly, so a test run was necessary.

It is a good thing I did, because the outer edge of the short sleeve was ridiculously wide.  With my lightweight material, it was going to look droopy and pathetic, just like it did in the cotton.  But the set-in sleeve went in perfectly!  I pleated the extra width out of the sleeve, keeping the sleeve head as-is.

What originally drew me to this design was the double peplum with the side draping.  Classic 1940s! 

This project has made it quite clear that I am going to have to do something about the lighting in my apartment.  Working with a fabric that is almost black was challenging!

[The fabric for this dress was received in exchange for my contributions as a Britex Guest Blogger.]

1960s Chenille: Construction

The Britex Guest Blogger process starts with an idea for a tutorial.  A recent ebay pattern purchase was nagging me.  And my obsession with silk organza is quickly catching up to my seam binding addiction, so an underlining tutorial seemed like the perfect way to get this 1960s sack-back dress made!

The first item of business was to make a muslin.  My pattern is a 31 1/2” bust – and I am quite sure that I was never that petite, even as a child.  There are many situations in which I cannot be bothered to make a muslin, however, when working with special fabric on a pattern needing significant alterations I feel it is vital.  Turns out, I had to add 1 3/4" in length to the bodice pieces (that is a record for me), so my practice run served me well!

The fun really started when the fabric showed up in the mail!

This time around, I had this incredible fuchsia chenille to work with, along with some silk organza.

I was curious to see what sort of construction methods would be used to stabilize the back bodice.  Turns out, all that is needed is a simple stay.  How fun is it to learn something new from a pattern?!

I ended up lining the skirt because the fabric is perfect for Fall weather, and I have a feeling I will be wearing stockings!

To make a lining, I eliminated the extra pleat fabric by drawing in a new seam allowance, and folding the excess of my muslin out of the way.

Because my skirt back seam is finished with, you guessed it, rayon seam binding, I left the slit open - this helps to eliminate extra bulk at the back pleat.  To keep the lining in place, a used a few thread tacks.

For a bit of contrast, and to pull in the gold and black background, I made a few covered buttons, backed with some gold Zeus lining scraps I saved from a previous project.  Speaking of which, did they stop producing that fabric?  I am bummed that I cannot find more yardage.  It really is my favorite lining for heavier coats. 

Because the back side of the fabric is almost as yummy as the front, I used it for my belt.  

And because I could not find a suitable buckle, I wrapped a bias strip around a basic metal one from my stash.

The last bit was to make the neck bow that snaps the neckline closed.  

In this case, the gold seemed just a bit too much, and with that incredible Chanel video fresh in my mind, I decided to tear apart the extra length I took off of the skirt pieces and make myself some braided trim.

[The fabric for this dress was received in exchange for my contributions as a Britex Guest Blogger.]

Frothy Vintage

This skirt was a lucky find rescued from a local theatre’s yard sale many years ago.  It does not get very much wear as it is rather delicate.  

Although, I am not exactly sure what I am saving it for, because it is so much fun to wear!  The silk chiffon is so light-weight it feels like it is going to float away.

The weekend before last, I wore this outfit to the Symphony.  In the ultimate lazy haze, I decided to wear it again to work two days later.  And why not – both items were hanging on the back of my door, so that was one less thing to think about.

Wearing this blouse has reminded me that I want another version, perhaps in a print . . .  That is one more thing to add to the project list!

I am a huge fan of fancy dress, but the satin pieces in my closet often feel too formal.  How ridiculous is that!

The weather seems to have skipped right over Spring to a hot Summer.  I have never been a fan of the heat, although my little guy, Valentino, will do anything to find his favorite patch of sun.  Me, on the other hand, well, I am doing my best to stay cool and out of that patch of sun!

Blouse:  Made by me, Vogue 2850

Skirt:  Vintage

Shoes:  Jennifer Moore

Earrings:  Banana Republic

Are We There Yet?

Have you ever started a project that never seems to end, no matter how much time is put in?

This was intended to be a Sew Weekly challenge project early last year.  I missed the deadline and packed the pieces away.  

The initial problem was that my yardage was extremely limited.  I just love getting great deals on beautiful fabric.  However, without a specific project in mind, knowing the correct amount of yardage to purchase is rather difficult.  There was no way for me to squeeze all of the pattern pieces out of my pumpkin silk when I finally decided on a pattern, so I had to find a suitable contrast, which took longer than expected.

I recall pulling the pieces out again in early Fall for another challenge, and once again, time got away from me, or I just lost interest.

The colors are very autumnal, but I am determined to finish this dress before Spring arrives.  I have been lacking in sewing motivation lately, but the time has come to put this project to bed.  So I have been working on the finishing bits and pieces for the last couple of weeks in fits and starts.  And I am almost there!

The Original Ceil Chapman Dress!

Oh my goodness!  Look what I just found on Pinterest.  

Look familiar?  It sure does to me!

I have always wondered what the original color was!

I wonder who is now in possession of the dress?  I hope they are treating her well - talk about the perfect holiday party dress!!

Miss Elliette

It is always a challenge to attend the Tuesday performance following the Gala event.  What they heck am I going to wear?

The trick is to forget all about the full length gown and not attempt to top that outfit.

Instead, I decided to pull out some vintage.

This dress is, without a doubt, my most awesome thrifting score to date.  I was performing in Sonora, CA years ago, and decided to go into an antique store to look for a brooch for the opening night party.  

They had this dress hanging on a coat-rack and one other black sheath made of what looked like woven ribbons.  

I still kick myself for not picking up that second dress, even if I did not think it was going to fit.  But I had the good sense to pick this one up!  The price was so ridiculously inexpensive it was embarrassing.

The label indicates that the dress is a Miss Elliette design.  From the inside finishing, it is clearly vintage.  I assumed late 1950s, but thanks to Vintage Fashion Guild, it seems that it may be 1960s according to the tag design.

Whatever the year, I love my lace dress.

Dress:  Vintage

Belt:  Thrifted

Clutch:  Banana Republic

Shoes:  Franco Sarto

Brooch:  Vintage

Hair Flower:  Made by me

Earrings:  Vintage from Shadows