Sunday, August 28, 2016

A Princess Coat from McCalls Pattern Company

Finally, a vintage reproduction princess coat from The McCall Pattern Company!  
And while it certainly is not the most spectacular 1950s coat I had ever seen (hello, Lilli Ann!), this toned down version is probably a lot more wearable than something with massive cuffs and an enormous collar.  But this is definitely something I would love to add to my closet.  Now I just have to find over six yards of fabric to make this happen . . .

Nicole Miller is a new designer for McCalls.  I am somewhat surprised that this designer collaboration is not in the Vogue section of the pattern catalog, but since this means that the price point of the pattern is going to be lower, it works for me.  

I am strangely drawn to McCalls 7469 (not what the model is wearing, but the design itself) - it looks a little 1960s mod to me.  
I love the two tone illustration.  The model's garment looks a lot more fitted than the line drawing, which makes me wonder if the dress is an actual Nicole Miller off the rack piece like the photographed designer Vogue patterns are.  I will be very interested to see how this one actually fits and how much ease is included.

I also like McCall 7464.  The seaming detail is nice, and I like the oversized pockets as well (not that I ever end up using them as pockets because I don't like lumps added to my hip area).  

It is on the short side for my taste, but that is an easy fix.  The fabric suggestions are for knit and woven, which seems slightly odd.  Is is going to be too loose in a knit or too tight in a woven?

Another unexpected choice of mine is McCall 7475.  I cannot think of a pattern in my extensive stash that has these style lines.  This one is definitely a classic jean skirt, but I can also see it made up in a fine wale corduroy for a bit of 1970s flare.  

But mostly, I am very, very excited about that coat!


  1. I love that coat too, I'm not sure my skills would stretch to make it though, 7464 is lovely too

  2. The Nicole Miller styles might be McCall's to appeal to the customer buying the Nicole Miller fabric at Joanne's.

  3. That coat has "you" written all over it. I do hope you'll make it.

  4. How did I miss 7475? And I've been looking for a skirt like that! I also love 7469 and I'm hoping that it actually has the looser, baggy shape. We will see since its on its way to me! And the coat is so you. I'm sure that you will find 6 years of some amazing fabric to make it work!

  5. Re Coat M7478 - Having helped a member of our sewing club to improve her View A coat, if using anything other than a lightweight fabric, do consider employing more tailoring/couture techniques to stabilise the fabric and design than are included in the pattern instructions. There is significant weight in the skirt so the upper bodice and shoulders benefit from having some structural build to maintain the shape. Other areas to address are the pockets and front edges. Recommend that you stabilise the pocket edges so they don't droop, keep their shape but are not too crisp. We taped the edge and also used midweight canvas 2nd time around - pliable and strong. To prevent distortion from the weight, do reinforce and stabilise the section that supports the front corner edge of the pocket before joining the sections.
    Front edges - adjust the extension for button size because the scale/proportions of this coat lend itself to larger buttons than the pattern cater for. Also recommend that you use tailoring methods to stabilise and also tape that front edge to keep it clean and straight.
    2nd time around my friend chose to take some of the fullness out of the skirt to reduce the weight and distortion. We were reinforcing and re sewing some sections of the coat, but if making it from scratch I would definitely use tailoring methods and build in the structural support. Given the amount of fabric involved, it's justified.
    It's a lovely coat and a nice pattern - just needs the support.
    Enjoy, Morgan

  6. When I saw the M7478, I'll admit to being a bit excited by it. I used to have a vintage coat with a similar collar as in View B. The piece itself was a thrift store find, floor length and in black satin. I wore it as much as I could (as did my friends) until the old seams finally gave out. I was in the middle of my decade long hiatus from sewing and ended up giving it away to a friend to use as a pattern. Lately I've found myself missing the coat, and lo and behold, McCall's came out with a similar look! I can't wait to see what you'll do with it!

  7. 7469's design lines point upward and downward at the crotch region. No thanks.