Thursday, April 4, 2013

Toile de Jouy

As you may have noticed in my previous post, I was debating whether or not to add sleeves to Butterick 5882.  In the end, the question was moot because I did not have enough fabric.  Oh well, I will save that for the next one!

All of those cotton prints that I pulled out to match back to the toile gave me an idea – quilting cotton would make the perfect lining fabric.  And when adding boning to a lining, it is so much easier to work with a stable fabric.  That is what I call a win-win!

I did not have any matching green thread for the cotton print, so I decided to go with a contrasting pink.  This is not a detail that anyone else will ever see, but it makes me happy.

The pattern also calls for a skirt lining.  I decided to finish my seams with seam binding and omit the skirt lining since I did not have anything suitable on hand.  Because this dress is going to be worn with a petticoat, it is not really necessary. 

Of course, I added a strip of silk organza to the back opening, and used a lapped application for the zipper. 

I should also mention that this particular pattern gives a bit more ease through the waist than most Butterick fitted waist silhouettes.  But with all of those seams, it was easy to take it in.

The one thing I am a bit iffy on is the straps.  They are cut in one continuous bias cut piece.  Obviously the bias is necessary for the fold down section at the front bust, but bias straps are just asking for trouble.  And they make hanger loops an absolute necessity.

When I use this pattern again, I believe I will interface the two ends of the straps for added stability.

Gertie mentioned that the photos on the Butterick website do not show the underbust strap folded down as she intended.  I could not get that portion of the strap to stay down on its own, so I folded and hand stitched it in place at the bodice edges.

And just an FYI – this dress would work as a strapless – just shorten the straps!  The bodice pieces are already boned, so why not?!


  1. Oh this is lovely work! I love to see process and thought like this, wonderful stuff!

    I have a list as long as my arm of post-pregnancy makes! Which is actually great as I can start collecting fabric and patterns ready for next spring!



  2. looking so lovely! really love the fabric, the lining, the bust! all so great

  3. The Art of Grousing, #1:

    "Between designing, sewing, and modeling, our Laura Mae is, in one word, diabolical."

    "Please, you underestimate her, she's TRIABOLICAL!

    "Mmmmm hmmmm. And where men are concerned, [picks up a lighter]and they always are, [lights a cigarette] she's GUYabolical." [staccato exhale]

    "Wasn't it just yesterday the confessional one was brazenly lusting after some bearded innocent?"

    [punctuates each word with a cigarette in the air, speaks through clenched teeth] "True, typical, and to be expected."

    "I'll have to broaden my 'circle of concern' beyond the men of northern California."

    "Male extraterrestrials should be on notice."

    "I've been thinking that she is but one summer show-stopping frock away from inciting general panic."

    "And now it's almost here. Sleeveless, sultry, and with seams aligned as skillfully as Stonehenge."

    "Ya think she made a deal with someone?"

    "Please, with benefit of a hand mirror, she made a deal with herself."[nasal exhale of smoke]

    "Like an enamel pot on a three burner stove with Bakelite handles, ya just knew this one was cookin' somethin' up."

    [gasp] "We're looking at the business end of 'The Summer of Laura Mae'!"

    "Wake me up when September ends."

    "You'll never get a moments rest between now and then. Every mid-summer's night scream will only lend indication to the general direction of her fashion insurrection."

    "You paint a picture more haunting than any Edvard Munch could muster."

    "Imagine if he had encountered the dear." [exhales and stubs the cigarette out]

    [mouths and eyes wide open, hands on cheeks - simultaneously spoken with utmost despair] "THAT Laura Mae!"

  4. It looks like another really pretty dress! Love to see the inside of your garments, the seam finishing is always so neat and pretty!

  5. Both fabrics are so very gorgeous and timelessly refined. I really like sage green, too - in no small part, I'm sure, because it's a colour that features heavily in the landscape here in the Okanagan where I spent many of my formative years.

    ♥ Jessica

  6. Contrasting pink thread never hurt a soul.

  7. I am SO EXCITED to see this finished! I was just on Bernie Dexter's website and saw that they just released a blue and white Toile print dress. I know yours is going to be fabulous! I just adore Toile!

  8. This dress is so beautiful- I love it.