My muslin made it clear that a bit of oomph was needed to make this dress resemble the pattern envelope.
And while I adore petticoats (and, to be honest, I will probably wear one with this dress, just because . . .) I thought I would try something different.
I decided to use a technique I came across in another vintage pattern, Vogue 8433.
Using a shortened version of my skirt pieces, a layer of interfacing is layered on the upper portion of the skirt pieces, basted in place, and treated as a single layer.
This helps to give more body to the hip area that is later pleated, gathered, or tucked into the waist measurement.
As a bit of an experiment, I used a sew-in Pellon. After all, this silhouette is supposed to look exaggerated!
I had the pleasure of examining the insides of this Ceil Chapman dress in person. The entire skirt is underlined in Pellon, and was my original inspiration.
For a nicer finish, I layered cotton over the Pellon, and finished the lower edge with seam binding.
This particular skirt is pleated and gathered, so I basted the pleat lines to keep the interfaced Pellon yoke in place during construction. Actually, the basting is still in the dress at the moment. Until I am completely finished and do not have to keep turning the dress inside and out, I thought it was best to keep those layered pleats in place.
This is the skirt volume on a dress form (prior to gathering). All in all, I would have to call this experiment a success. And yet another way to achieve an extreme vintage silhouette without the added layers of a petticoat - great for warmer climates, I think!