Friday, March 4, 2016

Masculine & Feminine

In an effort to finish my winter projects before Spring formally arrives, I have been doing my best to ignore the urge to pull out some floral cottons and whip up a summer frock.  The temptation is real!

And I have actually been rather successful.  This blouse is my second version of this vintage pattern.  I purchased the cotton twill from Stonemountain & Daughter many months ago.  It was originally earmarked for a skirt, but Beth was right, it just was not heavy enough.  It may be slightly thick for this blouse, but it still works.  Some day I will make this up in a fabric with a lot of drape because those sleeves deserve it!

The skirt comes from a vintage pattern, Advance 5912.  I actually used this pattern many years ago to make the alternate view, but I cannot find the darn thing.  The wool (also Stonemountain) was set to be another skirt entirely, but I decided to go with this design because I wanted something to match my new blouse!

The skirt muslin turned out way too big.  I often hear that people love vintage patterns because there is very little extra ease included - this skirt, and so many others I have used, do not follow that trend.  So, I am going to continue to argue that point.  In my experience, if you choose the proper size, the massive ease issue with modern patterns is resolved, and plenty of vintage pattern have more ease than you might expect or want because every design is different!   

I trimmed the front piece (where the majority of the excess was drafted) before cutting into my wool.  Unfortunately, the garment still turned out on the large side.  The skirt pieces are fine, but the waistband is problematic.  

I tried telling myself that it is nice to have a waistband that is not super fitted for fat days, but a waistband that does not feel snug at the waist is just annoying.  Having to tug my skirt up throughout the day makes me feel like one of those guys with sagging pants that is constantly hanging onto his waistband to keep his clothing from ending up around his ankles.

So next winter, this skirt will need a bit of surgery, but for now it will be put back in the closet.  And that is going to be the last wool project I work on for a while!  Pastels and cotton, here I come!

Blouse:  Made by me, McCalls 8358
Skirt:  Made by me, Advance 5912
Grandfather’s Tie & Tie Pin
Shoes:  Nine West


  1. I love that skirt! I understand your issues with the waistband although I have often found that it's a very fine line between nicely snug and actually a bit uncomfortably tight.
    Oh, and I completely agree with you on the topic of ease in vintage patterns. In my experience, in vintage patterns as in modern ones, each pattern company is different in its approach to ease and so is each design (and it isn't always possible to judge that based on drawings, photographs and written information).

  2. Where do you find your beautiful vintage patterns? This blouse and skirt are gorgeous. Cheers, Michele

    1. I believe I found both of these patterns on eBay many years ago. I have had some success there, but also some disappointment with empty envelopes or the wrong pattern inside. These days I like etsy much better - the sellers seem much better, in my opinion.

  3. Deeply cool ensemble. I've always loved the look of neckties on ladies.

    Have a terrific weekend,
    ♥ Jessica

  4. Love the pocket details. I am curious about the construction of the skirt. Does it actually open in the front, or is that a pleat of some kind? Do you have an invisible zip hidden down that center back? A very interesting design, and quite beautifully sewn.