Showing posts with label Simplicity 1997. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Simplicity 1997. Show all posts

Monday, February 23, 2015

Beautiful Bouclé


Simplicity 1997 is a pattern that was never put away - I always meant to make another version.  And here we are (even if it took longer than I was expecting!).  


I did manage to make a skirt along the way, but it has taken quite a while to get to the dress.  Now that it is finished, I really can't say why I waited so long.


Well, that is not entirely true.  I think I was waiting for this fabric


That is not to say this was the easiest thing I have ever made.  The loft of the bouclé made attaching the ties to the neckline challenging.


(By the way . . . the trick to tying a bow with thick fabric is to pull one side of the tie until it hangs down a few inches below the other and use that longer tail to wrap the second tie - it took a few tries, but I finally got it!)


This dress definitely needed a matching belt.  But making a buckle and belt from a thick textile is not as easy as I had hoped.  The saving grace is that the fabric presses beautifully.


And miraculously, it is not itchy at all.  Overall, it was worth all the extra effort it required.  And now I have a new dress that I love!


But the next project is going to be nice and quick and simple!  



Dress & Belt:  Made by me, Simplicity 1997
Shoes:  Miss L Fire, “Dame
Earrings:  Shadows
Brooch:  Vintage
Minaudière:  Banana Republic

[The fabric for this dress was received in exchange for my contributions as a Britex Guest Blogger.]


Thursday, February 19, 2015

Fabric Snob


My latest Britex project gave me the opportunity to work with some pretty amazing fabric.


I was lucky enough to receive a couple of yards of this yummy wool/mohair blend to play with.  Oh, how I love textured fabrics!  But they do present their own challenges.


The pattern I chose was familiar because I have made it before, so I jumped right into the project after checking that all the pieces would fit.


Simplicity 1997 is single sized vintage pattern (as so many of them are), and includes a printed stitching line.  Since I was going to underline in silk organza anyway, I decided to go all out and hand baste those stitching lines.  This gave me nice wide seam allowances - important when working with a loose weave since they like to shred apart at the cut edges.


One upshot of a textured fabric is that stitches sink right into the fabric (although removing basting stitches can be a pain).  To keep the two fabrics from shifting along the pleats lines, I used a small pick-stitch.  Those stitches remain in the finished garment.


This fabric has a bit of a 1960s vibe, so I wanted to shorten this version of the dress.  Which is probably the first time I have done that to a vintage pattern!  In the end, I took off five and a half inches, which also helped to fit everything on my yardage.  


Because the skirt front is pegged, it is hemmed with a facing.  That meant that I had to decide on length before starting the project.  Thankfully, I had a finished dress to play with length.


The rest of the project involved a lot of hand basting and then catch-stitching a bunch of seams.  The fabric has quite a bit of loft, so that process was extra important for this particular project.


Keeping the bulk to a minimum was also a motivating factor.  There was quite a bit of grading of seam allowances.  I have to admit I was worried once I put the skirt on the dress form - that is a lot of fabric to corral into a waistline!


And, of course, a waist stay was the final bit of business to prepare the dress for its first outing!


[The fabric for this dress was received in exchange for my contributions as a Britex Guest Blogger.]


Sunday, February 8, 2015

Irony


I am finally getting around to reading Overdressed:  The Shockingly High Cost of Cheap Fashion.  As expected, the contents are rather depressing.  


To sooth myself after reading a few chapters, I spent some quality time in the sewing room . . . hand basting underlinings and seams together.  (This project is about as far removed from fast fashion as it gets.)


Which struck me as rather ironic.


And reminded me how thankful I am that I can make my own clothing!  Happy sewing, everyone!!


Sunday, May 19, 2013

Pastels and Watercolors



I often get stuck in a rut with my self-made clothing. 


While making a garment, I have plenty of time to think about how I am going to style the finished product.  That first outfit gets etched in my subconscious, and every time I go to pull it out of the closet, I envision it exactly as it was previously worn. 


Which is terribly boring!


So for a fun exercise, I thought I would pair two previously worn separates (Simplicity 4047 & Simplicity 1997) to create a brand new outfit.


Because what good are all those blouses I made last year if they do not get to take a turn about the room!



Blouse:  Made by me, Simplicity 4047
Skirt:  Made by me, Simplicity 1997
Shoes:  Colin Stuart
Earrings:  Liz Palacios

Wednesday, July 4, 2012

Designer Genius



These days I feel the term “genius” is bandied about a little too often.  It takes away from the true meaning of the word.

But there is no other way to describe Mr. Jean Paul Gaultier.  The man’s creativity is astounding.

So yes, I finally made it to the De Young for their Gaultier exhibit.  If you live in the Bay Area, run, do not walk, to this event.  The only negative thing is the overwhelming amount of fabulousness (although I am sure that this was done on purpose).  You really will need more than a few hours to digest all of it.

I have been lucky enough to see Yves St. Laurent, Balenciaga, and now, Gaultier thanks to this local musem.  Thank you, De Young! 

And while I would never choose to wear some of his designs, there is no denying the fashion genius that is Gaultier.


If I ever had the opportunity, I could absolutely see 85% of those fabulous vintage Balenciaga pieces in my closet (as if I would ever be so lucky?!!).  And I would kill to wear approximately 70% of the YSL couture collection that was featured in San Francisco.  The brilliance of Gaultier is a bit more, how shall I say, esoteric.   If I had the opportunity to become a collector, about 40% of the amazing designs would be my cup of tea. 


As amazing as the construction may be, I will never wear a bodysuit, even if it is designed by Jean Paul Gaultier, himself.  So while some of the pieces are a tad out of my comfort zone, the pure genius of this man is clear in each and every garment/sketch/photo/runway show.


And the man loves his fishnets . . . that’s it – I am in love!

My outfit for the day started with the purple silk. 


I have cotton remnants from other projects that I keep because I cannot bear to throw them away.  Often, I pull them out and get really frustrated when there is not enough yardage for any of the projects that I want to make.

This blouse was no different.  I have a cotton watercolor floral that was going to work perfectly with my purple silk skirt.  The image was clear in my mind, and it was going to be lovely.  Unfortunately, it was not meant to be.

So I pulled out another possibility.


I still did not have quite enough to cut everything out, but I was very close.  Instead of putting the fabric back in the drawer, I used the silk from the skirt to line the sleeves.  And it worked very nicely.


Overall, I am very pleased with this outfit.  I just know I will get a lot of wear out of both of the pieces.  Separates are so very versatile!


By the way . . . have you ever had an issue with an invisible zipper buckling?  Well, if you have the chance, check out that vein-embroidered flesh colored body suit.  Even couture pieces have less than perfect bits!  It is somehow reassuring to see that absolute perfection really does not exist in this world.  If only I could remember that when a particular project is making me crazy!





Blouse:  Made by me, Simplicity 2154 (sleeves from Simplicity 1872)
Skirt:  Made by me, Simplicity 1997
Shoes:  Nine West
Fascinator:  Made by me
Purse:  Harveys Seatbelt Bag
Earrings & Ring:  Macys

Tuesday, July 3, 2012

Hand Sewing is Fun!



Most days I do not mind the fact that it takes me quite a while to finish my projects.  I feel like all of the obsessive finishing is worth it in the end.

A hem, a belt, a few buttons to cover and apply to a garment . . . how long should these things take?  Well, a whole lot longer than I expect, even after years and years of sewing.  How can that be?!

This skirt was one of those projects. 

The fabric is from fabric.com and is a lot more homespun than I was expecting.  I washed the yardage and it really did not soften very much at all.  It is also very sheer.

I knew that I was going to underling the back skirt pieces, and I had anticipated using some silk organza.  However, that was not going to improve the sheer quality of the fabric.  In the end, I decided to go with some pink cotton.  It is not quite flesh colored, but unlike a matching purple color, it does not change the tone of the silk.


Because I previously used this pattern to make my Bubblegum Pink Dress, I knew that I did not have to worry about fit.  I cut the cotton out using the pattern tissue and transferred all of the markings in chalk.  Then I used that cotton piece to cut the silk, and pinned everything together.  I basted the pieces by hand (one of the reasons this takes so long, but really worth it in the end).  And I do LOVE hand sewing; it just takes longer than running a seam through the machine.


One of the big secrets to dealing with underlining is basting darts and pleat lines before sewing them together.  It makes such a difference.


And then there are all of the extra finishing touches that have nothing to do with the actual garment, and everything to do with the OUTFIT.


I wanted something a little extra special, since this skirt was going to make its debut at the Gaultier exhibit currently running at the DeYoung (more on that later).


With one evening to complete, I decided to go with butterflies that match back to my blouse.

I have a few lengths of Russian Veiling from Britex that I sometimes pull out simply to look at and imagine all of the amazing vintage hats out there in the world.


This stuff really is magical.  The idea was to nest a bevy of butterflies in a bit of greenery.


With all the wind in San Francisco, these guys wanted to take flight.  I may have to weigh the felt form down a bit more (or stay out of the wind!).

Saturday, March 10, 2012

Bubblegum Pink



My boss and I have frequent arguments discussions about the definition of Art.  He believes that a painted piece of wood is Art, and I disagree.  This is the same person who frequents museums on a very regular basis, but will avoid the Balenciaga and Yves St. Laurent exhibits right down the hall because he can’t be bothered.  Well, I certainly think that a gown that required hundreds and hundreds of hours of work by skilled artisans deserves of spot in a museum (and deserves to be worn as well!). 


So what makes a piece of Art worthy of a museum?


Webster defines Art as “the quality, production, expression, or realm of what is beautiful or of more than ordinary significance.”  How exactly did a splash of paint or some kind of ink scrawl become classified as “Art” and why are some people willing to pay thousands and thousands of dollars for something that looks like a small child could easily create and seems, to me, to be the definition of ordinary?

"Think Pink" John McCracken, 1967

So when my boss first mentioned an artist that painted planks of wood and had a successful career, I was skeptical, and then rather infuriated.  If this is art, then every house painter out there deserves to be in a museum, right?  How is his creation any more special than a stick that a small child took a paint brush to?

John McCracken

As you may have guessed, I am not a huge fan of modern art.  What I find amusing is that the clothing and silhouettes I gravitate toward were most likely inspired by this very work.  But hey, at least I can see the hypocrisy, right?

I adore Elsa Schiaparelli, but have a hard time with Salvador Dali – ridiculous, I know, but since when does personal taste follow any sort of logic?! 


That being said, I can certainly appreciate the skill involved in some of the art created in the last century.  And I love when clothing designers like Yves St. Laurent are inspired by a flat canvas created by Mondrian and make a woman’s curved shape into a canvas of shape, color, and blank space.  Brilliant!

With my recent introduction to John McCracken (he of the painted plank) fresh in my mind, I came across the Sew Weekly’s “Inspired by Art”  Challenge.  I happened to have a bright pink wool/silk blend fabric that has been calling out to me.  


Add to that a recent ebay purchase of this pattern, and I knew exactly what I wanted to make up.

This dress is really very simple in construction.  The thing that makes it interesting for me it the pleating on the front of the skirt and, of course, the bow!


Kimono sleeves are fabulous, but I am always nervous clipping the seams.  I came across a little trick in the instructions for this dress years ago and have found it really helps:  topstitching on either side of the curved seam for a couple of inches directly over where you have clipped will keep those cuts from migrating into and beyond the seam.  I generally machine stitch this technique, but this time around I decided to hand back-stitch for added control.


Speaking of hand stitching, I am really becoming obsessed with lapped zippers.  And although the fabric might not have needed it, I added a strip of organza to stabilize the zipper – I think it also helps keep the seam from pulling the loose weave open during wear. 



Of course, halfway through the project I was convinced that the fabric was NOT working for the silhouette.  Imagine the body of silk organza with the added thickness of wool.  It really is fantastic stuff (and another one of my Fashion Fabrics Club purchases that was an unexpected color – I really wonder who is taking those photos!) but I was afraid that I was going to look like giant pink balloon.  This dress can stand up on its own without a dress form or body to hold it up!




Now that the dress is complete, it really looks more Mad Men than plank to me, and perhaps that is a good thing.  Joan, in particular, can’t seem to get enough of bright pink.  And if it’s good enough for her, it's certainly good enough for me!

Enough of my rant - and perhaps that is the true purpose of Art - to spark discussion and thought.  





Dress: Made by me, Simplicity 1997
Coat:  Benard Holtzman
Shoes:  Nine West “Vishnu”
Belt:  Thrifted
Fishnets:  Ralph Lauren
Earrings:  Vintage
Ring: Macys