I was lucky enough to receive a couple of yards of this yummy wool/mohair blend to play with. Oh, how I love textured fabrics! But they do present their own challenges.
The pattern I chose was familiar because I have made it before, so I jumped right into the project after checking that all the pieces would fit.
Simplicity 1997 is single sized vintage pattern (as so many of them are), and includes a printed stitching line. Since I was going to underline in silk organza anyway, I decided to go all out and hand baste those stitching lines. This gave me nice wide seam allowances - important when working with a loose weave since they like to shred apart at the cut edges.
One upshot of a textured fabric is that stitches sink right into the fabric (although removing basting stitches can be a pain). To keep the two fabrics from shifting along the pleats lines, I used a small pick-stitch. Those stitches remain in the finished garment.
This fabric has a bit of a 1960s vibe, so I wanted to shorten this version of the dress. Which is probably the first time I have done that to a vintage pattern! In the end, I took off five and a half inches, which also helped to fit everything on my yardage.
Because the skirt front is pegged, it is hemmed with a facing. That meant that I had to decide on length before starting the project. Thankfully, I had a finished dress to play with length.
The rest of the project involved a lot of hand basting and then catch-stitching a bunch of seams. The fabric has quite a bit of loft, so that process was extra important for this particular project.
Keeping the bulk to a minimum was also a motivating factor. There was quite a bit of grading of seam allowances. I have to admit I was worried once I put the skirt on the dress form - that is a lot of fabric to corral into a waistline!
And, of course, a waist stay was the final bit of business to prepare the dress for its first outing!
[The fabric for this dress was received in exchange for my contributions as a Britex Guest Blogger.]