Saturday, December 27, 2014

Hidden Details


My wool skirt is coming along nicely.


Instead of a back vent or kick-pleat, I decided to add a godet.  I am excited to see how this added bit of shape at the back turns out.


And then there was a whole lot of catch-stitching to do.


Being a wool pencil skirt, this garment definitely needed a lining.  And I happened to have some bemberg rayon that is an almost perfect color match to the wool, which was quite handy.


The waistband is boned to help keep its shape.


I normally do my best to avoid plastic boning.  But when it is only two inches long, and will not extend past the waistline, it works.  


And I have some stashed away, so I might as well use it, right?! 


Then there was some more hand stitching . . .


Until all the pieces were put together!


Next, the bulk was graded at the waist seam.


The skirt still requires a hem, but that is for another day.

14 comments:

  1. Hi Laura-Mae,
    This is looking to be a great project, so many techniques I'm keen to see how your hard work looks when complete. Particularly interested in your godet, I tried one once and it came out wrong, we all might learn something from you!

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  2. Beautifully made! Love the boning at the waistband.

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  3. I love how you share the details. You are so talented at putting things together and thinking about the intricacies of how things are needed for shape and structure. I also love this flecked wool choice, so Lilli Ann!!

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    1. Thank you, Joanna! I do love a nubbly textured wool, which are so hard to come by these days . . . another reason I love vintage (and Lilli Ann, of course!).

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  4. I love how it's coming together, and all from your stash to boot! I think it's a genius idea to pink the seams, why didn't I think of that when I was working on my wool coat?

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    1. I don't pink seams as often as I should. But it really does help the shred factor during construction!

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  5. This is such a beautifully constructed skirt. I look forward to seeing the final product with godets instead of the vent. Your clothes are always so beautifully finished. I love knowing I am not the only one who spends so much time on the inside.

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  6. That's an impressive amount of hand-sewing! Looks like it's going to be beautiful.

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  7. Also looking forward to the godet reveal. I have never boned a waistband would that give a better result than petersham?

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    1. The main reason I went with boning is because the waistband is so wide. I find that during the day the wider bands have a tendency to wrinkle or fold in odd ways, even when interfaced. The boning will keep the shape. I would say that interfacing is a starting point, petersham is a step up from most interfacings, and boning gives extra oomph to the shape of the pieces and can also help hold things in! But what I choose is most dependent on my fabric choice.

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  8. Great idea to add boning to the waistband. Thank you for sharing this tip!

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  9. It's looking great! So much high-quality detail... I'm beginning to feel embarrassed about my 'normal' skirts ;)
    By the way, I hope you did remember to treat the cut ends of the pieces of boning. In my experience, if you don't melt the ends a bit in a candle flame or something like that, the separate strands of plastic will, over time, worry loose and work their way through any amount of fabric covering them.

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  10. Hello Laura-Mae, I was wondering what sewers used for boning waistbands etc before plastic? Was it that spiral steel stuff used for corsets? Lovely skirt!
    Sarah

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