Napped in Velvet

A few people spotted the pink velvet shoes in my last post and asked if I made them . . . I wish I could make my own shoes, but have never had the nerve to try - a large part of the problem is my aversion to to projects that require glue!  The shoes in question are actually crushed velvet, where the dress fabric is a patterned velvet.  They just happen to be the same color pink.  Working with the fabric reminded me of their existence as it has been a few years since they were last worn.

In my mind, December is the perfect time to work with and wear velvet.

Last year, I managed to save some red velvet from a horrible fate, and this year I finally got around to working with this textured velvet for yet another winter themed dress.  It does not scream Christmas, but it feels rather festive.

The fabric is perhaps more drapey than the pattern calls for – the lower front bodice section is folded on the bias and would probably look more like the sketch in a crisper fabric.  I do, however, like the draping, although the finished look is different than what I expected.

And it is certainly a relief to finally finish a project, even if there are already quite a few more in progress!

Dress:  Made by me, Burda 7176

Shoes:  Colin Stuart

Coat:  Harve Benard

Purse:  Harveys Seatbelt Bag

Earrings:  Banana Republic 

Finishing Touches

The last few weeks have done nothing to cure my lack of motivation.  Sure, there has been a bit of sewing, and some knitting here and there, but I still feel incredibly lazy and unproductive.

I realize that I should forgive myself for not being in a creative mood, but it always makes me feel guilty.

In fact, my pink velvet dress is finished, so at least I can tell myself I have completed something.

The pattern does not call for sleeve lining, which seems silly to me.  If everything else is lined, why not make the extra effort and have a completely lined garment?  Unfortunately, I did not have quite enough pink bemberg on hand.  But I did have a bit of ivory that works almost as well.  I am just going to pretend that the mismatched colors add character to the piece!

And now I am going to attempt to snap out of this funk . . . I desperately need a Chihuahua hug!

Beaded Belts

Since I have had so much fun beading recently, I thought I would start another project.  My velvet dress  was not labor intensive enough for me, so I added beading to the mix! 

For this belt, I decided on simple linear rows of beads.  All the preparation needed was a few rows of lengthwise basting to keep things on track.

These beads have been living in my beading box for an eternity - I believe they originally came from a garage sale lot that my mom picked up.  Pink is one of my favorite colors, but for beading projects, I usually gravitate toward purples and blues.  This seemed like the perfect opportunity to use pink!

To help tie in the fabric for my velvet dress, I added a flower (which also covers the closure).  First, I penciled the design on paper. 

Two flowers were cut out of paper, one of which was trimmed down.  This process was repeated until I had four different sizes.  This templates were then used to trace on scraps of velvet.

A bit of Fray Check was dabbed along the edges and the pieces were layered one on top of the other.

To finish things off, I added a few beads at the center before attaching the flower to my new belt.

Working with Velvet

Here are some construction shots of my latest project, made with a lovely pink textured velvet that has been stashed away for quite a few years (I believe it is a rayon/poly blend).

I hate to tell people that working with a certain fabric or a specific technique is difficult, because I would never want to influence someone who has had a fantastic experience with a complicated process.  For instance, I am basically self taught, and because no one ever told me setting in sleeves was supposed to be challenging, I have never had an issue with them.  And zippers . . . they are an integral part of certain designs, and so learning how to work with them was necessary and not a big deal.  Certainly my first attempts did not look beautiful or “professional,” but they got the job done just the same.

A costume designer who I thought knew everything there was to know about sewing, once grumbled that she would never use velvet again after completing a stunning gown in the fabric.  It suddenly struck me that velvet was "supposed to be" a bear to work with, not because I had a bad experience with the fabric, but because someone who could do just about anything with a needle and thread was frustrated.  Silly, right? 

That being said, velvet, along with many napped fabrics, definitely has a finicky personality.  

Directionality is extremely important.  Cutting layouts should have all pieces facing in the same direction.  For the richest color, the nap should face upwards.  Many patterned velvets are cut with the nap facing the hemline so that the pattern is easier to see.  I was quite interested to feel that this particular fabric has the nap moving from selvedge to selvedge (perhaps the texture process is responsible).  

Of course, there are some items that will help make things easier.  A walking foot and a needle board are fabulous when working with napped fabrics, but both are an expensive proposition.  I have neither, and it does not stop me from working with velvets – they are just too yummy to avoid!

This is not going to be a super quick project, even though the dress design is rather basic - velvet is not a fabric to choose for that last minute frock for tomorrow evening’s party.  Patience is required.  I will avoid a project made from velvet if I am feeling the least bit cranky – I will only get frustrated.

The pleats were the thing I was most worried about.  There are a lot of lines to mark and match up. 

I basted the muslin to the cut piece along the pleat lines, turned the piece over, marked in chalk, and then snipped the basted stitches apart.  I figured, between the thread and the chalk, something had to remain visible!

Hand basting is your friend!  To avoid irritation, I am hand basting all of my seams, darts, and well, basically everything.  Velvet has a habit of shifting around, especially under a standard machine foot.  Also, un-picking machined seams will most likely mar the fabric and remove some of the pile - hand basting eliminates that problem.

Make sure to never set an iron down on napped fabric, instead, gently steam from the wrong side while hovering the iron over the fabric.  Crushed or patterned velvets are a lot more forgiving in this regard.

Expect raveling and shredding – those cut edges are going to be a mess.  I have been using my pinking shears on every seam that is completed.

So progress is slow, but the dress is coming along!

What are your favorite tips for working with velvet?

Back in the Sewing Room

I must be crazy, because for my first project after the big one, I am cutting into velvet.  The other designs/fabric that I had in mind were just not motivating me, so I decided to go with the one that kept drawing me in, although I am quite sure there will be some grumpy moments while fiddling with velvet.

This will be the second Burda pattern I have worked with, and since it is a fitted skirt, I decided I needed a muslin.

I love the images on the front of vintage reproductions (and this is no exception), but the Burda line drawings leave me a bit cold.  For instance, the neckline on the fashion sketch looks fabulously high and chic, but the technical rendering looks like any other standard sheath dress.  I was, however, pleasantly surprised to find that the pattern tissue creates something much more akin to the dress the lady with the high hair is wearing. 

I have been feeling rather lazy these past few days, so it feels good to get back into creative mode.

And, of course, I have been knitting!  There is something about cold weather that lends itself to a pair of needles and wool yarn.  Tino has been super snuggly lately, and knitting is something that will not disturb the sleeping Chihuahua on my lap.