How much is too much?

Working with vintage patterns can present interesting issues.

Sometimes trying to figure out how much yardage is needed for a particular design is complicated by the fact that fabric requirements are listed for 35” wide fabric.  Not to mention that most conversion tables I have found are limited to around 4 or 5 yards – and so many of my 1950s frocks use considerably more than that!

This app has solved my problem.

The one quirk is that numbers must be entered in decimals.  (If you cannot remember the decimal version of a fraction, a cheat sheet may be found by clicking on the “How To” button.)

I am often late to the game with things like this, so perhaps everyone already knows about this helpful little application, but if not, go check it out!

[Disclosure:  I found this app on my own and received no compensation – I just think someone might find it useful!]

Draping Magic

Did you know that Britex Fabrics hosts Pop-Up Events every month?

As a special treat, and to celebrate the release of the new book Draping The Complete Course, Karolyn Kiisel (the author), will be demonstrating her techniques on September 19^th at Apparel Arts in San Francisco.  The demo will feature how to create Audrey Hepburn’s iconic dress from “Breakfast at Tiffany’s.”

While I will never consider myself an expert in anything sewing related, no matter how many hours spent with a needle in hand, draping is something I know almost nothing about.  But I would love to change that!

Sound like fun?  You can sign up for this fabulous event here.  Hope to see you there!

[Disclosure:  I was contacted by Laurence King Publishing/Chronicle Books about this event but purchased my own ticket]

Lacey Eyelet

There is still a bit of work to be done on Simplicity 3224, but I am getting there!  Kris generously emailed me a copy of the instructions (thank you!), but I am going to hold off looking at them until I finish, and then compare what I did to the original construction.

To complicate matters, I am working with eyelet, which requires a bit of extra finishing work.  Silk organza came to my rescue, once again.  I found three yards that I completely forgot about – love when that happens!

This is not going to work . . . 

Unfortunately, I did not think my pocket construction all the way through.  Sometimes auto pilot gets in the way.

I will just call the mistake my practice run.  The opening is what needs to be finished, not the bottom portion - whoops!  Way to miss the obvious!

I wanted my eyelet motifs to match as much as possible, so I marked those in chalk on the pocket and pocket flap tissue.

One side of the flap is underlined in my ivory bemberg and the other in silk organza for a bit more body.

One thing that took me way too long to understand was clipping exterior curves.  Interior curves were clearly not going to lay flat without a few cuts, but I never really understood why a circle edge could be so lumpy.  But clip a few little triangles out of the curve and everything is perfectly smooth!

The bodice is underlined, but I am treating my ivory bemberg as a lining for the skirt pieces.  Because the two fabrics drape very differently, I cut the rayon lining shorter than the cotton eyelet.  The dress has been hanging for a couple of days, and parts of the lining are now even with the cotton eyelet, which is exactly what I was expecting.

At the moment, I am working on the bolero.

A Special Project

If you have been reading this blog for any length of time, it is probably obvious that I will take any and every chance to dress up.  For the past few years, I have had the opportunity to volunteer at the Marin Symphony Gala - and it is a fabulous opportunity to go all out!  Last year I made a blue brocade and satin gown for the occasion, and the year before I made my favorite Emerald Green Gown.

I usually start looking for inspiration at least a year in advance.  Years ago, I lusted after this reproduction from The Vintage Pattern Lending Library.  It disappeared from the site, and after numerous emails without any response, I figured I had missed out on getting a copy.  Drat!  It is an Advance Import pattern from the 1950s and finding an original copy would probably be impossible.  But earlier this year while I was wandering around online, I noticed that it had reappeared.  Whoo-hoo!

Britex Fabrics has generously sponsored this project.  I will be working with an amazing silk/linen blend and some beautiful vintage buttons. 

But before I even pull the fabric out of the bag, there is a lot of work to do!  As always, my intention is not to be stitching last minute details the day of the event . . . I have never managed this in the past, so we shall see how it goes!

[The fabric for this project was received in exchange for my contributions as a Britex Guest Blogger.]

Sweater Knits

This sweater was finished last month, but I just got around to taking pictures.

I rarely frog knitted projects because I am lazy, but this one required doing so more than once.  There are a few typos in the pattern, and they become really obvious with such a linear design - just not until a few inches have been knitted.  Some errors I can live with, some I cannot.  This one made everything look off-center, which was too much to handle.

The yardage requirement listed is quite generous.  Instead of stressing out about having enough yarn (which is what usually happens), I kept thinking I must have more knitting to do with all the yarn I had left.  This color is wonderful, though, so I should be able to come up with another small project for the remaining yarn at some point.

And then the button issue reared its ugly head.  When I realized I was not going to find anything suitable in the near future, I went with a dorset button (which is quickly becoming my go-to).  

This time, I used a few beads for added interest.

I am very pleased with how this turned out, even with all the extra work!

Sweater:  Made by me, “Jayne” from Sweater Girls

Skirt: Banana Republic

Shoes:  Banana Republic

Look Ma, no directions!

This project is a first for me – working without instructions!

When I started garment sewing, I assumed there was only one way to construct a pattern.  I figured that the directions were there for a reason, and ignoring them would cause major problems.  What can I say, I was naïve.

Part of what makes garment construction so much fun for me these days is the infinite number of ways a dress can be put together.

So when I came upon this vintage pattern that did not include the instruction pages, I was disappointed to miss out on learning new techniques, but figured it would also be a great challenge.

The pattern is printed, and I have the cover art which gives me a good idea of what the dress should look like.

Unfortunately, the ebay seller's description failed to mention the missing and damaged pieces – which I find rather irritating.

The bolero front is torn and missing an important chunk.  Thankfully, I was able to piece together what the original looked like using the facing.  And the cuffs and another facing piece are completely missing.  I think I will be able to work around all of this, but I never would have purchased a pattern without directions AND pieces.  Which makes this a bit more challenging than expected . . .

Wish me luck!

The Power of Suggestion

I happened upon this amazing Dior creation while messing about on Pinterest the other day.  And the first thing I thought of was Scarlett O’Hara.

To be fair, I have Gone with the Wind on the brain because I am currently re-reading it for the fourth or fifth time. 

But there is a striking resemblance between the Dior and the infamous “curtain” dress.  And this amazing dressing gown.

Would I have thought this had I not been reading about Miss Scarlett’s adventures?  I cannot say.  All I know is that I am dreaming of hoop skirts and luscious velvet!

[Click on image for source]