The Underbodice

As a bit of added stability, I added an underbodice to this dress.

The first pattern that came to mind was Simplicity 4070.  The neckline was easily altered, and the fit was great right out of the envelope (which I knew would be the case because I have already made a version of the pattern).

The neckline ended up being altered a second time on the muslin to make sure this part of the dress does not show when being worn.

[A quick tip for keeping a bias cut neckline from stretching out is not to cut into the bias until you are ready to finish that area.]

Four boning channels were added, one on each princess seam, and one just inside each side seam.

I forgot to take photos of that step, but they are just strips of bias cut quilting cotton that get folded and stitched to the wrong side of the garment.

To finish the upper edge, a duplicate underbodice was cut from a cotton sateen, the two layers stitched together, and finally understitched.

This was a nice little reprieve before starting on the bodice construction!

[Disclosure:  My Fabric Designs provided me with a coupon code which was used to purchase a portion of this fabric, but the opinions posted here are my own.]

Four Glorious Yards of Skirt

Have you ever worn an incredibly full skirt?  Some of my fondest costume memories are of wearing hoop skirts.  Granted, I would not want to wear one every single day (I have enough trouble keeping small objects on low tables when I walk by in a petticoat), but they are wonderful to play around in.  And a super wide petticoat is almost as good.

For this dress, I gave myself four yards to work with.

This is not a circle skirt, so it is not as twirly as it might be, but it is going to be pretty darn fun to wear!  The petticoat is about half of its final size, so the skirt will be even more poofy!

[Disclosure:  My Fabric Designs provided me with a coupon code which was used to purchase a portion of this fabric, but the opinions posted here are my own.]

Seasonal Sewing with Simplicity Patterns

Dear Simplicity Patterns . . . Your new website is garbage.  It has been months since it was “updated” and yet it has not improved one bit from the disaster that it initially was.  The search option is heinous.  This is incredibly frustrating.  McCalls recently did an upgrade as well, but that one works just fine.  What the heck?!  How do you expect to sell any patterns if no one can find them?

I am, however, enjoying some of these new designs.  And while I cannot image needing a swimsuit in the future (and I think this is probably a look best suited for lounging around the pool, and not actually getting in the water), this vintage reproduction is wonderful!  It feels very Jane Russell in Gentlemen Prefer Blondes.  The jacket, certainly, needs to get in my closet immediately.  And maybe with a significant hem alteration, I could make the dress work for me.  It looks like there are bloomers under the swim dress, but how are they attached?  There is no waist seam, so does that mean that layer extends all the way to the underbust, or are they separate?  I am definitely going to check this out the next time I am at JoAnns.  And I would be very curious to see the original vintage instructions on this . . . does anyone have a copy?

My other big complaint is that the catalogs seem to be released in dribs and drabs.   The only reason I am aware of new designs is because of the independent pattern designers.

For instance, there were hints on the American Duchess instagram account and blog that there would be Outlander themed patterns in the next Simplicity catalog which is the only reason why I bothered looking at simplicity.com.  And the first few time I did, I got very frustrated because I could not find them.  

But I am so very thrilled for Lauren!  It also sounds like there will be quite a bit of information on her blog about making these patterns a bit more authentic than the limitations of a contemporary paper pattern would allow - I can't wait to learn something new!  I am not familiar with the Outlander books or the television series, but I have certainly seen images of the costumes.  This Bar Suit look-alike is so gorgeous!!  I think I need to find an excuse to start making costumes again - that, or figure out a way to wear panniers and bum rolls in everyday life!

This little bustier top has a very similar feel to Simplicity 1426, which I have made.  The pattern is very cute and it may have to come home with me.  I can see a lot of possibilities.

This dress has great bones.  I do love a nice princess seamed skirt!

And I am not sure about the above-the-bust seam on this dress, but it might be a fun experiment.  Is this flattering, or a horrible idea - it probably depends a lot on body type, but I would be afraid that the line would make it look like the dress is ill-fitting through the bust.   Proportionally, the shorter length looks best to me, which may mean that I skip this one.

McCalls has also released their latest Summer catalog.  I wish they would stop having so many different catalogs (Early Spring, Sping, Early Summer, Summer), just put out four of them, but make them more interesting, please!  I am not finding a single design that interests me, even after looking at the line drawings.  I guess the Archive Collection is gone.  Boo-hoo.  I guess I will just have to find something I like in my stash of patterns to keep me busy . . . which should not be all that difficult! 

Manus x Machina, Thoughts on The 2016 Met Gala

As soon as I heard this year's theme, I was expecting to be disappointed with The Met Gala red carpet.  I was anticipating futuristic silhouettes with flashing lights and maybe even a 3D printed dress or two.  But just because you have the technology to attach lights to a dress does not mean that you should.  Case in point, this Marchesa dress on Karolina Kurkova.  It was lovely without the tech - with the wiring, she looks like she belongs on a float at Disneyland (I hope no one spills a drink on her or there may be an unscheduled trip to the emergency room).  And do your best to avoid looking at the hair . . . I guess she pulled off that Disney wig in a hurry before stepping on the red carpet and did not have time to run a brush through her hair.  I do, however, love Georgina Chapman's backless dress.  The beaded fringe is amazing, and must be incredibly fun to wear - although I think I spy a case of horsehair braid resting on the floor which is doing strange things to the hemline.  Make it stop!!

It would seem that a lot of folks thought that grunge or goth was the dress code, and some choices were downright bizarre.  There were a lot of strange shoe choices as well as some really short hemlines.  I am not a fan.  I guess 90s grunge is back, but I wish I could un-see all of the combat boots on the red carpet.  Very few women can actually get away with the look.  Sarah Jessica is one of them.  She went with stilettos, but her outfit choice this year is still breaking my heart.

I did catch a glimpse of Dior's "Junon" gown in the museum exhibition as well as a Bar Suit.  So I guess I have misinterpreted the theme.  And thankfully, not everyone and their stylist went the tech route.

My absolute favorite of the evening is Nicole Kidman’s choice of Alexander McQueen.  Here is proof that cut-outs can be classy.  She looks gorgeous and incredibly elegant.  

I am not quite sure about the chain that holds the cape in place (I would have preferred that the piece attached directly to the dress at the shoulders).  And those two moon shapes at the midsection look slightly off - they would have looked much better at the waist, in my opinion, but other than that, I think this celestial confection is stunning!  I would definitely love to see this one up close!

A dress I would love to have in my closet is Bee Shaffer's gown with a train that goes on for days.  This one is also McQueen.  She looks like she belongs in a Pre-Raphaelite painting!

Zoe Saldana went with a Dolce & Gabbana gown with a significant train, but I think this one is trying too hard.  I am sure that all those feathers (I think that is what they are) look incredible in person, but it looks more like a floral arrangement trying to look like a dress than an actual dress to me.

This 1930s style Chanel is pretty fabulous.  I am not generally drawn to Karl Lagerfeld's design ethic (although I would love to be a fly on the wall in the couture atelier!), but I do love this.

I also find myself drawn to this Chanel as well.  What is happening to me?!  I hate the hair and the attitude, but I bet that dress is wonderful up close.  I love texture!

And here comes the prettiest robot you ever did see.  There were a lot of metallic choices which is obviously a play on the "Machina" theme.   Naomi Watts is wearing a pretty basic silhouette by Burberry that would normally bore me, but she looks beautiful, and I do like the floral texture on top of the chain mail base.  I am not sure I like the choice of earrings, though.

I actually prefer Gucci's liquid gold version of the strapless column dress on Sienna Miller to the silver on Naomi.  This one is bordering on gaudy, but she makes it work.  And I love the bow treatment on the bodice.  Maybe I am drawn to it because I can see Marilyn Monroe slinking around in something just like it.

Rose Byrne is also in liquid gold, but the form fitting shine makes her look dumpy, which I did not realize was possible.  The silhouette looks very classic 1930s Hollywood and I want to love it, but it is not very flattering.  Is it velvet or satin?  The shoes and clutch are not helping the ensemble, either.  And now that I am staring at it, I think that skirt ruffle needs to start at the waist instead of the hip - that might also help cut down on the shine across the stomach.  This might be incredible in a print . . . maybe floral or even an abstract geometric design.

This Proenza Schouler on Brie Larson also has possibilities (although by the look on her face, Brie might not agree).  I love the tiered ruffles in a heavy fabric encrusted with paillettes and the black tie; I actually thought this was Prada when I first saw it.  But the cutout at the waist would look better with a more extreme diagonal line, and perhaps a more scooped armhole, in my opinion.  The length is a bit unexpected, but I think it works.  I am also curious to know what is going on in the back.

And while it seems a bit informal for a red carpet, I adore this green dress.  I have no idea who Elizabeth Debicki is and I cannot find any mention of the designer, but the dress is lovely.  All it needs is a parasol and you have the perfect frock for a garden party.  Love those sleeves!

Which is a breath of fresh air after seeing this feathered monstrosity.  It looks like Bjork's swan dress went grey overnight and lost its sense of humor.  What on earth was Vera Wang thinking?!  

[Click on image for source]

Cutting into the Good Stuff

My fabric has arrived - all seven yards of it!  My Fabric Designs does not have an option to purchase half or quarter yards (although I hear that there is a possibility this may change in the future), and I was not sure that six would be enough.  The pattern repeat is rather large, and I did not want to end up short.  This has turned out for the best because all I have left is small scraps now that everything has been cut out.

But first things first . . . I tested my fat quarter in some soapy water before hand washing all seven yards.  Even with a bit of scrubbing, there does not appear to be any color transfer when the fabric is wet.

Before cutting into the print, I needed to cut out the underlining layer.  This time around, I used a mid-weight quilting cotton.

Yellow tracing paper was used to transfer my stitching lines to the underlining.  The marks are easy to see, but not so visible that they will show through the cotton/silk fabric.

Next, the underlining was pinned, cut out, and hand basted to the cotton/silk.

And then the fun begins!

There is a whole lot of hand sewing to be done, which just so happens to be my favorite!

[Disclosure:  My Fabric Designs provided me with a coupon code which was used to purchase a portion of this fabric, but the opinions posted here are my own.]

Extreme Netting

So I couldn’t leave well enough alone.  This petticoat needed to be over the top!

And so I just kept adding more and more netting . . .

and then some more . . . 

until there was a mountain of netting.

This is what 20 yards of the stuff looks like.  

I am not sure any more bulk would fit through my sewing machine!

Then I hemmed the cotton lining with a one inch horsehair braid.  

This will help to keep the cotton skirt hem from collapsing and/or getting caught between my legs when I walk.

My initial thought was that I would attach this piece to the corselette.  However, with the amount of netting on this skirt, it suddenly did not seem like such a great idea.  That, and trying to pin the two together was getting on my last nerve.

With time running out, I found some grosgrain ribbon in my stash and attached it to the cotton portion of the garment.  It is not pretty, but it does the job.  A skirt hook & bar closes the waistband just off of center front.

And that is one fluffy petticoat.  Only time will tell if I can fit in my car while wearing this!