Thursday, May 12, 2016

A Bodice

And now for the bodice . . .

Like the skirt and the underbodice, I underlined the silk/cotton fabric with a mid-weight cotton.

The bias lines of the front bodice were stabilized with scraps of fabric selvedge.

Just inside the seam allowance, that selvedge was pick-stitched to the two layers of fabric.  This does a great job of keeping the bias from stretching out of shape (far more than a line of stay-stitching can ever do).

The raw edge was evened out and finished with rayon seam binding.

And then it was time for the gussets.  A scrap of fabric was stitched to the right side of the bodice to stabilize the clipped area.

The gusset was then hand basted into place . . .

and then stitched by machine.

Which ended up looking like this.

After the shoulder seams were stitched, the bodice started looking like a wearable garment.

The side seams were pinked and then catch-stitched to the underlining.

And the raw edges of the gussets were finished with seam binding.

The underbodice was then stitched to the side seam allowances.  It still needs the back bodice lining, but is definitely coming together.

[Disclosure:  My Fabric Designs provided me with a coupon code which was used to purchase a portion of this fabric, but the opinions posted here are my own.]


  1. The inner workings are utterly impressive - impatiently awaiting the grand finale.

  2. wow! It looks just as amazing on the inside. I can't wait to see the final result!

  3. So much structure! I think you'll have a great final garment.

  4. After sewing for a living for a few years I became so burnt out that the sight of my sewing machine gave me a headache. I eventually returned to a regular day job and my poor machine was put in a closet. It was only recently that a butterick pattern (5209) caught my eye and pulled me out of my sewing rut! I enjoyed making it so much that I made a pledge to myself I will make one garment a week (purely for my own indulgence) and never let myself get burnt out again. Along the way I found your blog and have been so inspired by your ideas and attention to detail. The only problem now is sometimes I catch myself reading your blog when I should be at the sewing table! :)

  5. How did you stitch the under bodice to the outer bodice? This is new to me as I have never made an under bodice or read how to stitch the bodice and under bodice together. I'm probably not the only subscriber that wants to know more about how to do this. Your gussets look great and so does everything else. Your work is beautiful and inspiring.