Summertime Simplicity

Simplicity has released their latest collection, making me question my choice to squeeze in one more wool project before the weather really turns - is it summer already?  

And it would seem that the shelf bust is incredibly popular this year (Butterick has two “modern” versions produced for their Patterns by Gertie line if this one does not thrill you).  I went looking for the original, and this is what I found:

Interestingly enough, the original design includes sleeves.  I cannot understand why they would not have reproduced that detail.  

Well, the back treatment is my answer.  The straps are the problem.  The original Simplicity 4704 is full coverage through the armholes and back.  And wait a minute . . . the strap treatment on the front of the bodice is different, too.

Perhaps Simplicity has morphed two different patterns?  But the original 4704 artwork is included on the new reproduction, right down to the checkered print (it looks like they just photo-shopped the sleeves out).

But wait . . . the original design looks a whole lot more like Simplicity 1848.  So why is Simplicity 4704 included on the new cover art?  What is going on here . . . and where has my cute bolero pattern disappeared to?  Also, they have changed the skirt.  Why?  Perhaps the full length version used too much pattern tissue for one design, but why add gores to the short version when neither of the vintage versions do?  What exactly were they trying to reproduce?

So it would seem the answer to the age old vintage reproduction question, “do they alter the design?” is a resounding "YES."  I am not sure I like this answer.

There has also been some controversy about the seam placement falling above or below the actual bustline on this style.  The contention is that if that seam does not sit below the bust it looks like a fitting mistake.  Well, I think the answer is less clear than that, and has to do more with the proportions of the actual person wearing the dress, and, of course, the dress itself.  

If you look at vintage versions of the shelf bust style, the bust area starts to look very large and matronly if the lady wearing it has significant assets, especially when the pleated/ruffled area is full coverage.  If you wish to minimize the bust, drawing a design line right through the bust and using a contrasting color can really help to accomplish this.   

I think the more successful of these designs incorporate some kind of draping or folds to disguise that bisected line that cuts across the bust.  This is missing from all of these reproduction designs (both by Simplicity and Butterick) and is, perhaps, what does not quite work on the larger model in Simplicity 1155, whose under bust measurement is significantly smaller than her full bust.

If, on the other hand, you often use a small bust adjustment, exaggerating this area might be something you want to do.  Wrapping that portion of you figure with a bias band of fabric will certainly accomplish this.  In this case, the seamline is placed right at the underbust, making a smooth lower bodice panel easy to fit without smooshing anything.  

The danger, I believe, lies in either extreme. Personally, I do not want to look flat chested in a 1950s design (a dress from the 20s is a whole other story), but I also do not want to look the prow of a ship with a bust that enters a room two minutes before the rest of me.  

What do you think of these designs?  Where should that seamline sit?  Thoughts?  Comments?  Would you make any alterations if you were drafting the pattern style lines for yourself?

But enough of the self busts!  What I would really like to see is a petal bust design, please!  

And by the way, there is a second vintage reproduction.  This playsuit set is adorable - very Roman Holiday.  The bra top design is somewhat similar to Simplicity 1426, but the whole look is wonderful.  Some may be disappointed that a pair of shorts is not included, but I really, really like this.  It is not groundbreaking, and not terribly complex, but the armhole cut on that shirt, the wide shaped waistband, and the pleats on the skirt just makes me happy.

There is even a jumpsuit design that I am strangely drawn to . . . if only my legs were six inches longer, I think I could pull that off . . .

  

But for now, I think it is time to spend some time with one of my unfinished knitting projects and a cup of tea.  Here is to a productive weekend!

[Click on image for source]

Fabric Snob

My latest Britex project gave me the opportunity to work with some pretty amazing fabric.

I was lucky enough to receive a couple of yards of this yummy wool/mohair blend to play with.  Oh, how I love textured fabrics!  But they do present their own challenges.

The pattern I chose was familiar because I have made it before, so I jumped right into the project after checking that all the pieces would fit.

Simplicity 1997 is single sized vintage pattern (as so many of them are), and includes a printed stitching line.  Since I was going to underline in silk organza anyway, I decided to go all out and hand baste those stitching lines.  This gave me nice wide seam allowances - important when working with a loose weave since they like to shred apart at the cut edges.

One upshot of a textured fabric is that stitches sink right into the fabric (although removing basting stitches can be a pain).  To keep the two fabrics from shifting along the pleats lines, I used a small pick-stitch.  Those stitches remain in the finished garment.

This fabric has a bit of a 1960s vibe, so I wanted to shorten this version of the dress.  Which is probably the first time I have done that to a vintage pattern!  In the end, I took off five and a half inches, which also helped to fit everything on my yardage.  

Because the skirt front is pegged, it is hemmed with a facing.  That meant that I had to decide on length before starting the project.  Thankfully, I had a finished dress to play with length.

The rest of the project involved a lot of hand basting and then catch-stitching a bunch of seams.  The fabric has quite a bit of loft, so that process was extra important for this particular project.

Keeping the bulk to a minimum was also a motivating factor.  There was quite a bit of grading of seam allowances.  I have to admit I was worried once I put the skirt on the dress form - that is a lot of fabric to corral into a waistline!

And, of course, a waist stay was the final bit of business to prepare the dress for its first outing!

[The fabric for this dress was received in exchange for my contributions as a Britex Guest Blogger.]

Sparkles

So, this sweater took a whole lot longer than I thought it would.  The actual knitting (and a bit of crochet) was rather quick – I was just distracted by quite a few other projects along the way.

This was to be my New York project. . . ready to wear by the holidays.  (Green and sparkly seemed fitting for the season.)

But there were more exciting things to occupy my time than a pair of knitting needles in the big city.

Then it took some time to find the perfect buttons.

The devil is in the details.

After all of that, I am very pleased with the finished product.  So much, in fact, that I think I may have to make myself another version . . . perhaps in cotton . . .

Sweater:  Made by me

Skirt:  Made by me, Advance 6256

Shoes:  Miss L Fire “Gabrielle”
Earrings:  Liz Palacios

Irony

I am finally getting around to reading Overdressed:  The Shockingly High Cost of Cheap Fashion.  As expected, the contents are rather depressing.  

To sooth myself after reading a few chapters, I spent some quality time in the sewing room . . . hand basting underlinings and seams together.  (This project is about as far removed from fast fashion as it gets.)

Which struck me as rather ironic.

And reminded me how thankful I am that I can make my own clothing!  Happy sewing, everyone!!

Wooly Woolens

In an attempt to finish a few more Winter appropriate items before it's too late (daytime temperatures in the Bay Area have been hinting at a season change), I decided to move forward with this outfit.  

I stalled out on the project after inserting the side zipper on the bodice back in December.  The unfinished garment sat on my sewing table, looking pathetic.  Every time I went in there (usually to get something for my Alabama Chanin skirt), I would feel guilty.  And the pieces were taking up enough space that it did not feel right starting something new.  Time to get to it!

There are no shoulder pads in this top, but I did think adding a sleeve head was a good idea since the wool is rather drapey.

Then out came the tracing paper, the pattern pieces, and the bemberg lining.  It really is ridiculous I have been avoiding finishing this for so long . . .

There are a whole lot of red button options in my sewing room, but nothing matched this wool.  Fortunately, I had a lone covered button left in its packaging that needed a permanent home.

The matching skirt needed a hem, as did the bodice sleeves.

A couple of thread tacks later, and the project is almost done!

It still needs a good press.  

And I keep finding bits of basting thread in the seams, so I will have to do more exploring in the daylight hours for any rogue pink and turquoise silk threads.  But the sense of accomplishment feels great!

New Butterick Patterns

The new Spring Butterick collection has been released. There are no new vintage reproductions.  Boo.  And just when The McCall Pattern Company started producing something other than basic designs . . . last season Butterick gave us historical designs in the retro category, and this time around . . . nothing.

Butterick 6167

Oh well.  I still have so many winter weather projects to complete that the Spring collections are making me feel like I am very behind the times.  Although, if the weather is any indication, cotton dress temperatures are not far away!

The blue hair is a cute touch.
I wonder if Gertie has a red polka dotted version in her closet?

There is one new Gertie design that is very cute, and which I am sure I will be purchasing (I find it extremely hard to resist the call of the pattern drawer during a sale).  And the fabric choice is really lovely . . .  the flower placement at the bust just makes it look like the model has no bust at all . . . I am assuming this is the fault of the floral motif and not the drafting.

 

But never mind that.  The thing that bothers me the most is how similar the style lines are to one of her previous designs, Butterick 5882.

Clearly, the skirt is different.  But the new design is just a dirndl.  It would be extremely easy to swap out another pattern, or just cut a couple of rectangles for a full, gathered skirt.  The bust inset is wider and extends further toward the side seam on Butterick 6167, and the shoulder straps are a minor change.  But the overall design is pretty darn close.  Or am I just getting too picky?

This Lisette design is also tempting.  The front skirt gathers look awkward on the model, but perhaps a different fabric choice would fix that.  What I really love is the keyhole detail at the neckline.

Butterick 6168

And I am intrigued by Butterick 6164.  Exposed darts are very 1940s, and I rather like the shape of the skirt.

Butterick 6164

Do you have any new favorites?  And do you think it is time to pull out the Spring/Summer patterns, or are you still working with wool?  Am I the only one who has not finished their winter wardrobe!?!  And now I shall resume sewing the hem on my wool skirt!