Black & Ivory Polka Dots

A couple of weeks ago, I decided it was time to make another knit dress.  Yes, my first and only other knit dress is also polka dotted.  So sue me - I have a polka dot addiction - they are very hard to resist, in my opinion.

The pattern I chose for my polka dots was Butterick 6410.  Ever since I pulled my first version of the dress out of the closet last September, I wanted to make another.  But this time, I thought I would try using the design with a knit fabric.

But then, my silly phobia about working with knits would rear its ugly head and the project was put on the back burner.

Since I had two contrasting polka dot prints in black and ivory calling my name, it was only a matter of time until I got the courage to cut into the rayon/spandex knit.  And after a bit of a hunt to find my fabric, I was off to the races.  (It's a clear sign that there is too much fabric in my home when I can't put my hands on a specific piece that I know I have.)

I used a narrow zig zag on the sewing machine to stitch the seams.  And then I pulled out the serger . . .

Yikes.  To be honest, there were some harsh words, and a threat to pitch the whole thing out the window.  You see, I decided to be a big girl and change the threads, and that's where it all went wrong.

I must have re-threaded the darn thing four times.  And it turns out, the only thing I was doing wrong was not pulling the thread taught through the tension dials (a step which is inconveniently left out of the YouTube videos I was watching - Arghhh!).  But reading the instruction manual out loud step by step finally made me realize my mistake.

At least I feel a lot more comfortable re-threading the darn thing after that ordeal!

And there is something very satisfying about sending a raw edge through a machine that comes out neatly finished on the other side.  I remember that feeling when using sergers in the costume shop in college.  Of course, I was not expected to maintain and re-thread those machines!

And while we are not best friends, I am learning to cohabitate and be civil with my serger.

One thing is for sure, using knit fabric and a serger sure speeds the sewing process up.  

But rest assured, I am never going to give up my Hug Snug seam binding.

I actually used it to stabilize seams on this dress - first, on the shoulders, and also on the front neckline opening.

There are probably more popular stabilizing options when working with knits, but I hate that clear elastic stuff, not to mention the fact that I don't have any in my sewing room, and I love when I do not have to buy any new items to make myself a new garment.  This was one of those projects, and for that reason alone I wan't about to make a special trip to the fabric store to purchase clear elastic. 

I borrowed a technique used in the Vogue 1027 instructions - adding a piece of elastic to a casing made using the waistline seam allowances.

With the help of my serger, this looks slightly more professional looking than my navy polka dot Donna Karan knock-off, but I am still going to have to work on my serger technique.

And I never really know how tight to make the elastic, so I inevitably need to shorten and re-stitch the ends together which happens to be one of my least favorite things to do on a sewing machine.

But I think the weight of this textile and the length of the garment will be served well by the addition of said elastic.  The fabric does have good stretch recovery, so I am hoping it doesn't  stretch too much vertically.

The final piece of the puzzle was the hem.  I am still not sure what to do with a knit hemline, but this time I used EZ-Steam.  It's a bit finicky to work with, but it does make topstitching look a lot nicer.  But what do you use if the hemline needs to stretch in order to get a garment on and off the body?  Because this stuff definitely would not work for one of those garments!

The Matching Jacket

After cutting out my orchid dress, there was enough fabric left over for another garment.  My first thought was a matching jacket.

And the first one that came to mind was Vogue 9082.

I underlined the entire garment for added body.

The two layers get basted together, and I like to stitch just inside all darts to keep the two layers together during construction.  Because the stitches are within the dart legs, there is no need to remove them later.

Having made this jacket before, I was familiar with the construction, and everything went together easily.

I went with bound buttonholes, and added a piece of fusible interfacing at the opening for added stability.

I tend to use my dress form as a hanger while working on multiple projects.  It keeps me from cutting into something I shouldn't with a sewing table full of fabric - which happens to be my recurring sewing nightmare.  When this jacket went on the form, I rather liked the contrasting collar.  Not enough to go in that direction for this particular project, but I may play around with it in the future.

Ironically, I had to piece the collar facing because of the limited yardage.  Looking at these pictures, I probably should have placed that seam so I could use it to make an in-seam buttonhole for the facing, but I didn't think of it while I was cutting.

But the buttonholes turned out great, so I really can't complain.

A little catch-stitching along the hemline . . .

and a bit of hand sewing on the lining . . .

and I have a jacket to match my new dress.

[Disclosure:  My Fabric Designs provided me with a coupon code which was used to purchase this fabric, but the opinions posted here are my own.]

Early Fall Patterns from McCalls

I was beginning to think that The Archive Collection was fading away, but we have a new pattern.  I find myself slightly confused by the styling (specifically that hat selection), but I am definitely intrigued by the design.

I do wish they included the original pattern illustrations as they do with the other vintage reproductions.  Does anyone recognize this one?  The choice is interesting, and I certainly cannot think of another currently issued pattern that replicates this look, so I am all for it!  I love the slightly Watteau-esque back treatment.  It's a similar look to the one I ended up when I modified this vintage pattern.  And I will be curious to see exactly how this is constructed!  Hooray for non-basic patterns!

My other favorite design is McCall 7805.  There have been a slew of cold shoulder designs recently, mostly blouses from all of the major pattern companies.  Of them all, this dress is the most likely to be added to my closet in the near future.

I ripped an image of this Donna Karan design from 2008 out of a fashion magazine back then and saved the picture for all these years.  And I have wanted my own version ever since - including that fabulous belt!  Vogue released a pattern from the same collection in 2009 that I have stashed away.  In many ways, I wish they had chosen this design, but I am thinking I may take a stab at recreating something similar with the help of this new McCall pattern.  We shall see what happens . . . and if there is time before the weather turns cold.  (So many warm weather patterns and fabric waiting to be stitched together!)

The other ever popular design this season is the ruffled wrap dress.  Here is another one.  I do like the additional option of the more business-like neckline with the notched collar.  But I think I prefer this one from Butterick, so I am going to pass on this particular pattern.

Only two new pattern to add to the stash is good news around here - those boxes are getting really, really full.  Do you have any favorites that will be following you home?

[Click on image for source]

Home Grown Orchids

It has taken far too long to make my orchid dress.  

Almost two years ago, I designed this orchid print.  My Fabric Designs reproduced the print on fabric thanks to the crazy world of digital printing that we have available to us today.  

As you can see, the color is not quite as bright on the fabric as the original design was on my computer screen.  That may have something to do with my fabric choice, which was the basic combed cotton yardage.  There can be a significant difference in color depending on the fabric content and weave.  It also probably has a bit to do with my computer screen as well.  The fabric itself is a little papery feeling which I do not get with the unprinted fabric swatch from the company - I suspect it has something to do with the dye itself.  It is not something that would dissuade me from using the fabric, just a little unexpected.  Actually, the crispness of the textile lends itself well to the structured silhouette I had planned for the textile.  Their cotton sateen, on the other hand, has a lot of drape, even when printed.

With so many pieces of fabric, I hem and haw over what to make with them.  For this one, I knew exactly what I wanted to do when I ordered the yardage from My Fabric Designs.  

The bodice of Vogue 8701 was something I wanted to use again as soon as I had completed this dress.

But this time around, I thought it would be fun to use the skirt pieces from Vogue 4203 to give the finished dress a slightly different silhouette than the original.

Part of the skirt poof comes from an added piece of cotton that acts as interfacing along the hipline and is treated as a single layer when it comes to darts, pleats, and gathers.  I borrowed the idea from a vintage 1950s pattern I made up many years ago.  I previously used a Pellon interfacing which worked quite well, but a single layer of mid-weight cotton is almost as good.

I went with a hand applied lapped zipper, and also added lingerie guards to each shoulder.  The bodice sits rather far out on the shoulder (which I love because it helps to balance a full hip!) so this keeps bra straps from peeking out.

I debated about adding a belt or not.  In the end, I applied a length of petersham ribbon over self fabric to have the option.

All the better to match a birdcage veil I made to wear with the dress!

[Disclosure:  My Fabric Designs provided me with a coupon code which was used to purchase this fabric, but the opinions posted here are my own.]

A Field Full of Daisies

Going through these photos has reminded me how much I love my Butterick 6453 dresses - all three of them!

I just love how easy it is to throw them on and look put together.

I wore my first version all the time last summer, and it is high time I pulled it out again.  

Funny how favorite items change from season to season. 

I have so many lovely summery cotton prints and am tempted to make more of this very silhouette.

Then again, I also have piles of other patterns that I want to get to.  Which do I start with?

For the moment, I am making myself another blouse/skirt combo because I am finding separates to be very convenient wardrobe builders.

We shall see how long that lasts.

And until I decide, I have plenty of Butterick 6453 options to choose from.