My pattern does include a foundation bodice with boning, however, it ends at the waist. Now, I suppose this is about where a corselette should stop. But this dress is fitted through the hips, and I have plenty of squishy bits below the waist.
I have heard of abs, arms, and buns of steel, but I have never heard of hips of steel. And from all the muffin top pics out there, I assume I am not the only one who has extra chub at the hipline.
So I decided that I would duplicate the length of the bodice pieces for my corselette. I cut one more cotton set of bodice pieces, along with a set made of cotton ticking (a cheap substitute for coutil). It has an extremely dense weave which makes pinning it a real bother, and at this point I have quite a few pin pricks on my fingertips.
Next, I cut strips of the ticking to create a casing for the spiral steel boning pieces.
Corset makers will probably look aghast at my bone placement, but I think it will work for me. The main thing was to leave the upper front bust alone.
My least favorite part of this process is cutting the spiral steel to the proper length. My boss kindly let me borrow a heavy duty pair of wire clippers since my jewelry pair are not strong enough. Even with the extra heft, cutting the coils apart was awful.
My hands are tired, but I am one step further along!
For the corselette, I used a centered zipper application. My 22” zipper extends beyond the actual fabric because it makes it much easier to get in and out of. I will leave the end hanging inside the dress. I have found in the past that tacking it to the skirt can cause buckling.
I also used an old bra as a bit of extra support. The bands were cut off after I basted them to the side seam allowances.
I keep getting distracted by my beaded embellishments, but the dress is really starting to come together!