Wednesday, October 17, 2012

Gala Gown: The Saga Continues

Well, I am getting closer . . .

The huge skirt pieces are cut on the bias.  With my choice of fabric, I was going to have to let the fabric drop before hemming it.  Instead of waiting until the last minute, I decided to hang the front and back sections on a hanger before sewing the side seams.  The seams no longer match, but at least they will not pucker after the sewing is completed!

To help with sewing up those bias edges, I used a very slight zig-zag stitch.  This also helps the seam to hang straight.

I used two strips of silk organza to stabilize the zipper opening, and decided to go with a hand-picked, lapped zipper application.  The pattern suggests a centered application, but I find that form-fitting side seams always want to open up when on the body and those zipper teeth are not something that should be visible, in my opinion!

Turns out that my blue satin has a whole lot more give than the bemberg lining.  I suppose that should have been obvious to me.  However, I have used bemberg to line stable wovens like linen over the years, and have had issues with the bemberg dropping below the stable hemline over time.  I just love when a project gently reminds me of something completely obvious (as long as nothing disastrous happens)!

I used a french seam for the lining side seams.

This dress is lined by dropping a duplicate dress inside, leaving the raw edges at the top.  When I complete the corselette, it will be sewn along the top edge and enclose all those yucky raw bits.

It’s starting to look like an actual dress, which is very exciting!


  1. oh the inside looks just beautiful!

  2. It is indeed! Very exciting, thanks so much for sharing. You're doing a beautiful job :) Looking forward to seeing you in it.

  3. It's going to be beautiful--can't wait to see a pic of you wearing it. Lovely work!

  4. The whole thing is terrifying! Irreplaceable brocade, satin on the bias, a mile-long zipper insertion... it's like a thriller, with all the twists and turns. I don't know how you're staying so calm. So far it looks exquisite. If I had something like that I would have to wear it inside-out to show off the beautiful construction.

  5. I love how your dress is turning out. I can't wait to see it finished.

    On pattern review, you seem to have the original release butterick envelope as the project photo. It through for a loop when I first saw it. Is there somewhere I can find a bigger photo of the envelope?

    - aisling

    1. I found the image on the vintage pattern wiki. I just love the old pattern envelopes!

    2. Thank you for that info. It's interesting note that the original is labelled quick and easy whereas the modern reissue is labelled average.


  6. Dear Laura Mae,
    I am so impressed with the delicate and professionalism in your craft.
    Your talent and creativity is amazing. I know that your time is spent in enjoying yourself through this process. I am glad that you share your talent with us and inspire in the spirit of vintage in the present day times. Such a unique and sophisticated style.Please make that Spanish Flamingo dress,you wood look great in red,blue or green in magenta materials or this material that I cannot find the correct spelling its sounds like"Taffada". Your talent is God given and you are truly blessed.