Well, I am getting closer . . .
The huge skirt pieces are cut on the bias. With my choice of fabric, I was going to have to let the fabric drop before hemming it. Instead of waiting until the last minute, I decided to hang the front and back sections on a hanger before sewing the side seams. The seams no longer match, but at least they will not pucker after the sewing is completed!
To help with sewing up those bias edges, I used a very slight zig-zag stitch. This also helps the seam to hang straight.
I used two strips of silk organza to stabilize the zipper opening, and decided to go with a hand-picked, lapped zipper application. The pattern suggests a centered application, but I find that form-fitting side seams always want to open up when on the body and those zipper teeth are not something that should be visible, in my opinion!
Turns out that my blue satin has a whole lot more give than the bemberg lining. I suppose that should have been obvious to me. However, I have used bemberg to line stable wovens like linen over the years, and have had issues with the bemberg dropping below the stable hemline over time. I just love when a project gently reminds me of something completely obvious (as long as nothing disastrous happens)!
I used a french seam for the lining side seams.
This dress is lined by dropping a duplicate dress inside, leaving the raw edges at the top. When I complete the corselette, it will be sewn along the top edge and enclose all those yucky raw bits.
It’s starting to look like an actual dress, which is very exciting!